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Routes in Varzob Valley - @19km Marker

Unknown 1 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown 2 S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Unknown 3 S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Elevation: 4,226 ft
GPS: 38.724, 68.789 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 155 total, 27/month
Shared By: Ed R on Jun 20, 2017
Admins: Amadeus
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Description

16 relatively newly (since 2009) bolted routes on SE facing slopes. Grades range from 5a - 8a according to local sources. All routes are in the shade until 10am local time at the height of summer. There's 3 trees at various points along the base of the rock which provide shade near base belay points. Given that rock climbing isn't popular in Tajikistan you are only likely to meet one or two others if you climb on a Saturday or Sunday. Rock is good quality for Tajikistan - not crumbly. Some routes have been well cleaned.

Main concern is the top anchors - use of single metal anchors driven into the ground at the top of routes. Possibly a Soviet leftover, but they are 1 inch girth steaks with a slightly open loop at the top, which stick 2+ feet out of the ground. In some places these are close enough to each other to make a 2-point anchor, but in many places they are the sole anchor. There aren't many trees on the top, and much of the rock at the top is loose, so not appropriate for securing anchors. The other option is to lead climb and create multi-point anchors out of bolts and trad. gear. EDIT Some of these stakes now have two bolts either side for creating anchors at the top.

Getting There

Drive north from Dushanbe on the road to Khujand. Immediately after the 19km marker (about 20min from Vodanasos Bozor in the city) there's a private bridge over the river - drive a few meters further and there's a public bridge. You need to walk from here. Cross the public bridge on the track toward the village, after just a few meters there's a big rock jutting out of the hillside into the road - go up the goat trail to left of it, follow the path round to the south into the valley that rises above the private bridge. The trail follows up, passed the base of the site up on the right, follow the track winding up the valley floor until you've completely passed the site and then switchback. The path is pretty clear. It's a ~30min walk. Download the .kml file for tracking info. Images should help with major way-points.

3 Total Climbs

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