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The Magic Wall

Montana > Southwest Region > Hyalite Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Potential road closures in winter. DetailsDrop down

Description

A bold rock climbing area in the summer, in the winter this wall contains some of the best mixed pitches Hyalite has to offer, including the Alex Lowe test piece Black Magic, described by many as the best pitch Hyalite has to offer. The Magic Wall is not for the faint of heart. The rock routes here (5.10a - 5.11d) have widely spaced bolts, with marginal gear in between. However, if comfortable at the grades, the andesite offers some good climbing in a stunning setting. A couple of routes run over 140', so bring two ropes. The mixed routes are mostly trad, so bring some rock gear and screws in the winter.

Spring and early summer can still be dripping wet. East facing, and higher elevation makes this a good mid-summer to early fall destination. In the winter, it gets early morning sun, then slips into the shade for the remainder of the day.

Getting There

Park at the Grotto Falls/Hyalite Lake trailhead. The wall is directly above you to the West.

Head west to the stream, walk upstream for 200 yards to a log crossing, then back downstream about 100 yards until you locate a faint trail to your left. Watch for cairns marking the trail.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
London Calling
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
Bus Bomber Variation
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
T is for Turmoil
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5 M5+
 27
Black Magic
Trad, Mixed, Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
London Calling
 1
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Bus Bomber Variation
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
T is for Turmoil
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Black Magic
 27
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5 M5+ Trad, Mixed, Ice

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October 28th
[Hide Photo] October 28th