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Routes in Harlequin Buttress

Harlequin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Elevation: 154 ft
GPS: -42.105, 148.34 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: David Stephenson on May 29, 2017
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Description

From thesarvo: Harlequin Buttress provides some of the steepest and best climbing on the coastal cliffs. Descent from many of the climbs has been made very easy by the installation of a rap station at the top of Harlequin and another at the top of the first pitch of Beaman's Route. A single 50m rope can be used to rap to the block at the base of Beaman's Route, two ropes are needed to rap down Heat of the Night or to the base of Harlequin.
WARNING. There have been massive rock falls in this area and a number of climbs have either lost their top pitches or have hanging boulders threatening would-be climbers below. The rocks at the top of Sweet Revenge, to the L of the Harlequin chains, have gone and the area there is still clearly unstable. The area from Crayfish Crack to Beaman's Route Direct should be treated with extreme caution as the possibility of hidden route damage and/or further catastrophic rock fall is very real.
In particular note that the top pitch has gone from Sweet Revenge, Beaman's Route and BR Direct, and The Only Fruit is no more - you can clip all the bolts while standing at the bottom now.

Getting There

From thesarvo: The northern of the two descent ramps. Harlequin Buttress is reached by following the old road track south along the top of the cliff for approximately 150m past where the road first meets the cliff top above White Water Wall. A rough track and some steps can then be followed down and north down along a ramp to the bottom of the buttress.

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