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Areas in Malibu Creek State Park Bouldering

Ghetto Wall Boulders, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Matts Boulders (AKA the Nest) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Planet of the Apes Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Stumbling Blocks Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Description

Although inconvenient to get to, the boulders here make up some of most aesthetic and proud lines in the Santa Monicas. It's best to boulder here with low water, many pads, and multiple spotters if you want to be safe.

Please wait a few days after it rains to climb here. Unfortunately, it's been too common for holds to break off climbs changing the movement and the grade.

Getting There

Multiple approaches to get here -the two most common are:

Park on Mulholland at the grasslands trail trailhead (just west of las virgenes) and follow trail towards the planet of the apes wall or the rock pool. You will go up to a hilltop and down the steep hill connecting with a access road that traverses the hillside parallel to the river. Once you get to the bathrooms and bridge, continue straight eventually squeezing between planet of the apes wall and the river.

Park at the main parking lot at Malibu creek state park. Going this way shaves off half a mile and some hill climbing, yet requires a parking fee. There's an obvious trail/access road going out toward the rock pool. Either take the river trail or cut right through left of the river past the visitors center.

Another approach trail which is much nicer in the heat of the summer is the century lake approach. Park at the end of crags road by Malibou lake (take care to not park in people's driveways / space), then hike in 1/4 mile to a fire road. A left here takes you to Matt's Boulders, a right to everything else. This tends to be shadier, although a longer hike in.

11 Total Climbs

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