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Areas in Rocca Sbarua

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Elevation: 3,500 ft
GPS: 44.967, 7.301 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 366 total · 19/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Apr 17, 2017
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath
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Description

Rocca Sbarua is known as the classic Piedmont proving ground for the best climbers in the 30’s - Boccalatte, Gervasutti and Ellena (who has a monument on the approach trail). With newer routes mixed in with the older classics, and a variety of grades to afford a casual day or to test one’s mettle, there’s a little something for everyone.

Granitic gneiss and a sunny aspect make this location a pleasant outing in cooler weather making the bumper seasons the prime time to climb at this locale.

21 sectors on a variety of formations with multi pitch climbing the raison d’être. Of course single pitch and even some bouldering are also available.

Mountain biking, hiking and paragliding are also popular activities in this area.

A local mountain hut is a lodging option: Casa Canada -Rifugio Melano.

casacanada.eu/?lang=en

Some of the more popular venues:

  • Torrioni di Rubinetto e Alice: Tupac amaru, Like a rolling stone
  • Bianciotto: Spigolo Bianciotto
  • Torre del Bimbo: Osteria del viandante, Variante
  • Cinquetti: Cornetti ala crema, La Mandibola, Analcolica, Cinquetti, Rio plano
  • Torrione del Condor: Ciapa e tira
  • Normale: Torinesi, Normale + passaggio del grotto
  • Rivero: Nani acidi, Rivero
  • Spigolo Centrale: Gervasutti ronco, Spigolo central, Scuola Paolo Giordano

Etc etc etc

Getting There

From Turin, head to Pinerolo. From the centre of Pinerolo take the SP167 (via Europa) to San Pietro Val Lemina then continue north to Talucco. Past Talucco, head towards Crò (Crò has a helpful, friendly tavern with climbing information and lodging possibility) and prior to the switch backs, take the right to the little hamlet of Borgata Dairin.

Park at the lot prior to town and take the path passing between the houses and going to the Colle Ciardonet pass. The rocks are visible from this pass. Follow signs for Rocca Sbarua and the hut Rifugio Melano (Casa Canada) and arrive in about 30 to 40 minutes from the car park. The climbing sectors stretch out above the rifugio.

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