PRINT: Rock Climbing in Small Adventures Wall / 313 Slabs, Southeast Utah

Small Adventures Wall / 313 Slabs

Utah > Southeast Utah > State Highway 313

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Small Adventures Wall, aka 313 Slabs, has a handful of bolted friction slab routes. While it's not the same quality desert climbing that can be found nearby, it is very convenient, has a number of moderate routes, and is a good place for a quick stop to give your calves a burn. The rock is sandy, sticky and has very few features, though a few edges, dishes and huecos do appear at times.

Beware, there are some loose flakes and plates. I was standing on a 3' x 3' plate when it sheared completely off the wall. I somehow managed to run backwards down the slab for 10 feet before the rope caught me as the plate shattered down the face below me, luckily missing the rope, my belayer, and the 2 dogs.

There is toprope access from the left side of the wall via a slabby ledge for several of the routes, though the ledge gets less defined the farther right you go.

I've only climbed 2 routes here (Tide to Tye & The Calla Way). If you climb any of these routes, feel free to add route descriptions and verify bolt counts and anchor status.

Getting There

From Moab, drive north on 191, then turn west on Highway 313 towards Canyonlands and Dead Horse Point State Park. From this intersection, drive 2.2 miles. The obvious slabby wall is on the right, and there is a parking lot on the left. Takes all of 60 seconds to walk to the base.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 11 ● Put Your Hands on Me Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 14 ● Refuse to Feel Sport, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 13 ● ToneStef Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 10 ● Swimming in Your Ocean Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 13 ● Kneeling Before Your Bounty Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 4 ● What's This? Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 16 ● Tide to Tye Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X 2 ● Of Kors Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 12 ● The Calla Way Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 3 ● What's That? Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R 4 ● Big Bolts Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R 2 ● Beyer Friction Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 2 ● Small One aka Friction Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R 1 ● Pigasus Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b 0 ● Small Two aka Buy or Fly Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 0 ● Beach Party Sport
V2 5+ PG13 1 ● Dessert sage Boulder

● Put Your Hands on Me

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR

● Refuse to Feel

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR

● ToneStef

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport

● Swimming in Your Ocean

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR

● Kneeling Before Your Bounty

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR

● What's This?

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport

● Tide to Tye

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR

● Of Kors

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X Sport, TR

● The Calla Way

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR

● What's That?

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport

● Big Bolts

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Sport, TR

● Beyer Friction

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Sport, TR

● Small One aka Friction

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport

● Pigasus

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport

● Small Two aka Buy or Fly

5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport

● Beach Party

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport

● Dessert sage

V2 5+ PG13 Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View of Small Adventures Wall driving east.

The middle(ish) section of the wall

Little Adventure Wall Moab 313 HWY - with new routes August 2020

Looking East from the top of The Calla Way

From the top of The Calla Way, looking along the slabby toprope access ledge

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Evan Wisheropp

What’s up with pocketed routes on the right? I may be missing them here. They look questionable, but would be neat if it turns out they’re good Mar 9, 2020

jefe Moab

Great Area for beginners. Most anchors are accessible by 2nd class ledge. A lot of foot-dependent movement with good friction, and some interesting mantle cruxes on moderate terrain. A 70m rope should get all routes for TR. All anchors now have chains, rings, or screw links. A few are on drilled pitons, but they are all bomber.
There are two new routes on this wall - a 5.8/9 left of Tide to Tie with 6 bolts and a 5.9+ to the right of Calla Way with 7 bolts.
Cross Kors 5.6 X off your list as a lead; only has one bolt. Maybe has potential for a beginner lead with more, but won't see lead traffic.
And, Big Bolts mystified me - two 5/8 bolts placed in weird places, the 2nd below a very hard crux - NOT 5.6, not even 5.9. Hard to believe a climber put them in.
I'll try to put in a new topo - I climbed all routes from left side of apron over to Beyer Friction. Aug 21, 2020

jefe Moab

before I forget.....(tomorrow I will) the best routes (left to right) are Put Your Hands on Me(5.9)/Refuse to Feel(5.8), new route "What's This?" (5.8), Tide to Tie (5.8), Calla Way (5.9), and new route "What's That?" (5.9). These are all good with interesting foot-dependent moves and/or mantles. There aren't a lot of great friction routes in the desert, and these are pretty good.
Tone Stef (low 5th) and Swimming in Your Ocean (rated 5.9-, but I thought was 5.6/7) are good teaching routes or beginning leads with low angle scrambling and short, well-protected cruxes.
After doing the other 5.9's which felt consistent, I got on Beyer's Friction (to the right on drilled pitons). It's rated 5.9R, but I couldn't get the move off the first pin, and there were two sections above that were definitely in the 5.10 grade range (not bagging on the FA, just trying to offer construction feedback for anyone who wants to try it - expect some 5.10 climbing). Aug 21, 2020

Ccard257
Fort Worth, TX

Jefe - you mention a 70 meter rope to be able to TR all routes. Will a 60 meter suffice for ToneStef?

EDIT for anyone else curious - a 60m will just barely work to belay from the small ledge/low angle area near the base of the slab. You'll need a 70m if you want to reach the ground. Dec 14, 2020

Hansen Wendlandt

The two extra routes (Jefe Moab mentions), What's That is obviously left of Big Bolts, but which one is What's This? Somewhere between ToneStef and On Kors, but which one? Apr 17, 2021