6.2 Fairy Tales Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 660 ft | 201 m |
GPS: |
41.14589, -74.16495 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 11,410 total · 125/month | |
Shared By: | kenr on Apr 5, 2017 | |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Slab about 30-40 feet tall.
Faces roughly South.
Friendly base area.
Top-Rope: One way to get access to set up an anchor using trees above top of this cliff is to scramble up around the right side, with some thoughtful somewhat exposed moves.
warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Faces roughly South.
Friendly base area.
Top-Rope: One way to get access to set up an anchor using trees above top of this cliff is to scramble up around the right side, with some thoughtful somewhat exposed moves.
warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Getting There
From the junction (lat long approx N41.1452 W74.1667) of Tower Wall tier trail and the Good Book access trail, go steep up NorthEast about 100 feet, and after the top of the steep section continue on the trail ENE gentle about 330 feet. Then where the main trail starts curving sharp left up to Good Book wall, see the "Fairy Tales" slab.
Classic Climbing Routes at 6.2 Fairy Tales
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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