Elevation: 5,091 ft
GPS: 37.504, -118.567 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,728 total · 213/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Mar 3, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

The Diamondback area and it's neighboring zone downstream -the Big Tower area- are two of the easiest crags to access in the entire Gorge. Ample parking and a casual twenty minute walk down the Middle Gorge Power Plant Road -with a constantly changing view- leads to cliffs hardly 5 minutes from the pavement. The ease of this graded roadway attracts hikers, fishermen and geologists, as well as climbers.



Climbs are often tall here, so bring a 70 meter rope and 16 draws or so - including some long runners. Knotting rope ends is smart, as is always watching the rope-end on lower-outs.

Diamondback area is center to left. 

NOTE: The plank bridges that previously gave access to these areas have been removed. See approach info below.

Stand-out long, moderate climbs include "Chewey the Beaver" (5.8+, 14 bolts) and "Finked" (5.7, 10 bolts). Also, "Phylanthropy" (5.7, 7 bolts) is another enjoyable moderate, just to the left and up some steps. All routes have fixed hooks, but please use your own quick-draws if you are doing an extended top-rope session with a group.

Skip Vasquez on the first ascent of "Phylanthropy"

Getting There

ACCESS UPDATE 09/20/2020: 

The foot bridges that previously allowed access to this area have been removed. 

From Lower Gorge parking:

Follow road down past Big Tower & Pink Wall. After the bend in the road above Grey Wall (and large cottonwood trees), continue ~5-7 minutes upstream (going past Diamond Face & Diamondback areas) to a pointed rock in the river. Hop or scrambled over the rock to cross the river.
Once the far bank is gained, follow cairns and a trail down-stream for 8-10 minutes to gain the Kidding/Diamondback areas.

Another 5 minutes to the Diamond Face area.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Diamondback Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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