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Routes in Diamondback Area

Chewy the Beaver S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chewy's Chimney TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Daughters of a Coral Dawn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Diamond in the Tuff S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dusk 'til Dawn S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Edge Zeppelin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finked S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Moon Fever S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Look Out Below S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Phylanthropy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shadow Plan S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Elevation: 5,091 ft
GPS: 37.504, -118.567 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,985 total · 226/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Mar 3, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

The Diamondback area and it's neighboring zone downstream -the Big Tower area- are two of the easiest crags to access in the entire Gorge. Ample parking and a casual twenty minute walk down the Middle Gorge Power Plant Road -with a constantly changing view- leads to cliffs hardly 5 minutes from the pavement. The ease of this graded roadway attracts hikers, fishermen and geology geeks, as well as climbers.



Climbs are often tall here, so bring a 70 meter rope and 16 draws or so - including some long runners. Knotting rope ends is smart, as is always watching the rope-end on lower-outs.

Diamondback area is center to left. 

The crossing to Diamondback is family & pet friendly - with short, generally easy trails on the other side. The area is accessible even during high water release times, a comfort if you are on the other side during a flow increase (see below).

Huge water release, winter 2017

The approach trail leads right to the base of "Chewey the Beaver" (5.8+, 14 bolts) and "Finked" (5.7, 10 bolts). Another great moderate is "Phylanthropy" (5.7, 7 bolts), just to the left and up some steps. All routes have fixed hooks, but please use your own quick-draws if you are doing an extended top-rope session with a group. 

Skip Vasquez on the first ascent of "Phylanthropy"

Additionally, during high water, this is the access point for the Diamond Face area, which has an assortment of older routes, some new ones that are unlisted, and another long moderate "Keeps Me Out of Rusty's" (5.9, 14 bolts).  There are rumors that there is a new 5-star 5.11 in this zone.
At low water you can use the down-stream crossing to get to either climbing area.

Getting There

Once you reach the bottom of the grade (Big Tower is the first big obvious formation) continue through a narrowing and a curve in the road. Continue up past a snow marker (Low-water approach) and look for a large, high bridge about 100 yards past the turn.

Follow the trail southeast to the base of Chewey & Finked. There are a few routes left of this junction, or continue along the base right over a slope to access the 5.10-11 routes, and to get to the Diamond Face proper.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Diamondback Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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