Areas in Pecos River Boat Launch Cliffs
|GPS:||29.702, -101.365 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||6,447 total, 611/month|
|Shared By:||Graham L on Jan 31, 2017|
|Admins:||Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff|
Getting weather forecast...
DescriptionHuge limestone walls (up to 250 feet!) on the remote Pecos River in South West Texas consisting of quality rock. Central Texas climbers began developing this area in the early 1990s and other crags further up river (now defunct). This gorge is sometimes referred to as the Verdon of Texas, but because of the relative remoteness of it, land access issues and lack of enough quality moderate routes, the area never became a well known Texas climbing spot and has now faded into obscurity. Note that because these routes were bolted 20+ years ago, and little if any hardware replacement has been done, climbers should use good judgement before trusting any pro. That being said, the climbing is stellar and the location is stunning. The style of the area tends to be dead vertical to slightly angled slab with some overhanging routes on the harder end of the spectrum. More techy routes and less of the bouldery style typically found in Central Texas. All the crags listed here face North East so they're typically shaded in the morning and sunny in the afternoon. Some routes never see sun though. Great camping can be found 1 mile east of the Hwy 90 bridge at seminole canyon state park.
Tread Lightly. See info: Details
The National Park Service manages the Pecos River starting at the Rio Grande and continuing 14 miles up river. They own the cliffs up to an elevation of 1,144 feet and have no policy against climbing up to that height. Climbing above that elevation is considered trespassing. On topo maps, the cliff tops tend to be around 1,200 feet. The routes in this section are on the East bank of the river between the boat launch and the Hwy 90 bridge. The NPS owns this section of cliff from top to bottom so all the routes described here are 100% OK to climb. There is another exception to the elevation rule: just north of the high bridge, on the east bank of the river, several acres of cliff line are owned by the Rock Art Foundation. This section at one time had bolted routes on it, but there are Native American pictographs there and climbing is now strictly forbidden.
Getting ThereApprox. 40 miles West of Del Rio. Take a left just before the Hwy 90 high bridge that crosses the Pecos and follow the road until you reach the parking lot for the boat launch. Walk down the road leading down to the boat launch. When you reach a kiosk on your left, it's time to start a short bush whack uphill to your right towards the cliffs. One of the first walls with bolted lines on it is next to the group of concrete retaining pillars build into the cliff above the boat launch. Once you've reached the face of the cliff, head north towards the bridge to access the remaining crags.
Crags listed from Left to Right (Starting at the bridge and working toward the boat launch):
Gecko Wall, Random Wall, Lawless Wall, Slain Buffalo Ledge, Whiskey Wall, Shaman Wall, Metalogic Wall, Dock Wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Pecos River Boat Launch Cliffs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season