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Routes in Waitts Mountain Park

A Hint of Spice T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tuesday Night First TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tuesday Night Second TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Elevation: 210 ft
GPS: 42.433, -71.066 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,387 total · 64/month
Shared By: Daniel DeBolt on Jan 29, 2017
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
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Description

The crag is roughly 30 foot tall by 250 feet long. It has several new glue-in toprope anchors. The older bolts look like they should be avoided.

Getting There

This is a public park in the city of Malden with the main entrance located on Leonard St. It has a parking area, a bus stop close by, and is quite close to Oak Grove station on the MBTA Orange line.

3 Total Climbs

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Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
I was pleasantly surprised by this area. Yes, the walls are short and the crag is small; yes, there is broken glass everywhere (still not as bad as Quincy, though), and it's definitely an urban crag. No, you're not going to find your new 5.hard project here, but at a ≈20 min drive from Somerville/Cambridge with easy bolted anchors, it's a good go-to for a day when you're short on time or uncertain about weather. The varied character of the rock face also means that you can usually get at least two quite different climbs from a single TR set-up. Aug 2, 2018
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
The girdle traverse from left to right is kinda hard, maybe 5.11.

If you're looking for climbing in this general area, Lebanon St. playground has some nice lines. Hard Knox has a couple hard gems including Central Scrutinizer. Pine Banks Park has decent lines and a scrambly cliff. Middlesex fells is also nearby and has a bunch of good bouldering. Aug 5, 2018

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