Elevation: 3,123 ft
GPS: 38.654, -122.622 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,860 total · 143/month
Shared By: Eric Berghorn on Jan 21, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: Covid-19 Closures! Details

Description

Kimball Canyon Crag is a 100'ft tall steep-sided plug of Volcanic Rhyolite with multiple fine quality sport routes of varying difficulty, length, and architecture. There is no route here rated less than 5.10 so it is not really an area for moderates. A great resource is Jim Thornburg's Bay Area Rock guidebook which features a section on Kimball Canyon Crag and the routes here (starting on pg.66)

There are routes in the shade and sun depending on season and the time of day. Many of the North facing routes are in the shade most or all of the day which is very desirable on the hottest days of the year. The hike in might be blazing, but you know before you arrive that the shaded exposure of the North Face will be up to 20 degrees cooler. You can generally climb here any month of the year, though occasionally it can be cold and windy.  


Many of the routes can be top-roped by ascending the access trail to the summit which continues past the North Facing routes for 100 feet before terminating at the base of a 3rd class scramble. Once there scramble up past a small tree and pass through a 15 ft' tall natural archway. From there once sorted, locate the accessible anchors above each climb. An obvious landmark on the top is the easily accessible anchor of Black Sheep Squadron 5.10d about midway across the North facing cliff 
Kimball Canyon Crag photographed from across the canyon

Getting There

Please refer to the main Kimball Canyon page for approach beta from the parking area.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kimball Canyon Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 5
Off the Radar
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Sweet Dreams
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Shooting Star
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Black Sheep Squadon
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
T-33
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Sad Wings of Destiny
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Pilot Error
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Off the Radar
 5
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Sweet Dreams
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Shooting Star
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Black Sheep Squadon
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
T-33
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sad Wings of Destiny
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Pilot Error
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Kimball Canyon Crag »

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