Elevation: 3,123 ft
GPS: 38.654, -122.622 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,662 total · 131/month
Shared By: Eric Berghorn on Jan 21, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Details
Access Issue: Covid-19 Closures! Details

Description

Kimball Canyon Crag is a 100'ft tall steep-sided plug of Volcanic Rhyolite with multiple fine quality sport routes of varying difficulty, length, and architecture. There is no route here rated less than 5.10 so it is not really an area for moderates. A great resource is Jim Thornburg's Bay Area Rock guidebook which features a section on Kimball Canyon Crag and the routes here (starting on pg.66)

There are routes in the shade and sun depending on season and the time of day. Many of the North facing routes are in the shade most or all of the day which is very desirable on the hottest days of the year. The hike in might be blazing, but you know before you arrive that the shaded exposure of the North Face will be up to 20 degrees cooler. Conversely the south side gets morning sun and is great on cooler days where the crag blocks the bone chilling wind that can whip down the canyon from the summit area of MSH. The south side also goes into the shade in the late afternoon.

Many of the routes can be top-roped by ascending the access trail to the summit which continues past the North Facing routes for 100 feet before terminating at the base of a 3rd class scramble. Once there scramble up past a small tree and pass through a 15 ft' tall natural archway. From there once sorted, locate the accessible anchors above each climb. An obvious landmark on the top is the easily accessible anchor of Black Sheep Squadron 5.10d about midway across the North facing cliff edge.

The summit area is relatively easy to access and offers fine views. There exists a unique labyrinth of cool corridors and caves amongst the jumbled towers on top, which is quite confusing to sort out. Just be very careful while moving around and stay clear of the cliff ledges on all sides unless completely anchored in. Many of the drop-offs are 80+ feet above jagged rocks and far from any rescue.

Kimball Canyon Crag photographed from across the canyon

Getting There

Please refer to the main Kimball Canyon page for approach beta from the parking area.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kimball Canyon Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 4
Off the Radar
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Sweet Dreams
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Shooting Star
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Black Sheep Squadon
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
T-33
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Pilot Error
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Off the Radar
 4
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Sweet Dreams
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Shooting Star
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Black Sheep Squadon
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
T-33
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Pilot Error
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Kimball Canyon Crag »

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