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Routes in Kimball Canyon Crag

Black Sheep Squadon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ceiling Zero S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dogfight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Flying Machines S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grey Ghost S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Off the Radar S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pilot Error S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pre-Flight S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sad Wings of Destiny S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shooting Star S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sweet Dreams S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-33 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vapor Trail S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Description

Kimball Canyon Crag is a 100'ft tall steep-sided plug of Volcanic Rhyolite with multiple fine quality sport routes of varying difficulty, length, and architecture. There is no route here rated less than 5.10 so it is not really an area for moderates. A great resource is Jim Thornburg's Bay Area Rock guidebook which features a section on Kimball Canyon Crag and the routes here (starting on pg.66)

There are routes in the shade and sun depending on season and the time of day. Many of the North facing routes are in the shade most or all of the day which is very desirable on the hottest days of the year. The hike in might be blazing, but you know before you arrive that the shaded exposure of the North Face will be up to 20 degrees cooler than being in the direct sun on the south side. Conversely the south side gets morning sun and is great on cooler days where the crag blocks the bone chilling wind that can whip down the canyon from the summit area of MSH. The south side also goes into the shade in the late afternoon.

Many of the routes can be top-roped by ascending the access trail to the summit which continues past the North Facing routes for 100 feet before terminating at the base of a 3rd class scramble. Once there scramble up past a small tree and pass through a 15 ft' tall natural archway. From there once sorted, locate the accessible anchors above each climb. An obvious landmark on the top is the easily accessible anchor of Black Sheep Squadron 5.10d about midway across the North facing cliff edge.

The summit area is relatively easy to access, offers fine views, and once familiar can be a great place for chilling out between climbs. There exists a unique labyrinth of cool corridors and caves amongst the jumbled towers on top, which is quite confusing to sort out at first. Just be very careful while moving around and stay clear of the cliff ledges on all sides unless completely anchored in. Many of the drop-offs are 80+ feet above jagged rocks and far from any rescue.

Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Getting There

Please refer to the main Kimball Canyon page for approach beta from the parking area.

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