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Routes in Little Cathead Mt

Elevation: 1,712 ft
GPS: 43.259, -74.313 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 913 total, 83/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Jan 18, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer
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Description

(Posting this info to supplement and update the brief description given in Blue Lines 2. The little map in the book describes an approach over private land - Lapland Lake ski area, $24/day trail fee - and the parking spot shown is not available to the public.)

Small crag, mostly steep, suitable for TR (60' static rope is very helpful to set up most lines). Faces S-SW and gets hit hard by the sun; in lean years the ice can be weak and delaminated by February.

Layout (described L to R) - short moderate flow at L end, then 2-3 30' vertical pillars (Cat Scratch Fever, photo). 20' farther R the wall becomes slightly overhanging and the pillars have a tough time touching down. A few slanting cracks hint at hard drytooling potential here. The R end of the cliff has another easy gully (reliable ice) and a few short pillars (Southpaw).

NOTE - the routes Arctic Cat and Schrodinger's Cat are at separate area about 10 minutes from the main crag. See those routes for location and other beta.

Getting There

Park at the pull-off where the Northville-Placid Trail (NPT) crosses Benson Rd/CR 6 about 4.5 west of Rt 30. This is about 30 miles north of Thruway exit 27 at Amsterdam, NY. At the trailhead register you have a choice: Option 1: Red trail 0.3 mi. to the W shore of Woods Lake, then cross the lake heading about due North, and head up the open woods (you will cross the NPT about a minute above the lake). Option 2: Blue NPT that swings east away from the lake before running north along the east side of the lake. Of these, I recommend the red trail option. It is MUCH shorter and faster. The only reason to take the blue trail would be if the lake ice is not safe, but if you're here to ice climb, that's extremely unlikely.

GPS will help you locate the ice crag (555795, 4789816). If you don't have GPS one idea is to walk farther up the lake, staying near the west shore, until you can see the cliff, then follow a compass heading to it.

Note - the NPT was re-located to this area fairly recently and may be missing or improperly shown on some maps.

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