Elevation: 1,712 ft
GPS: 43.259, -74.313 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,136 total · 81/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Jan 18, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer
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Description

(Posting this info to supplement and update the brief description given in Blue Lines 2. The little map in the book describes an approach over private land - Lapland Lake ski area, $24/day trail fee - and the parking spot shown is not available to the public.)

I like to think of two principal areas - The Ice Crag and the Wet Wall/Arctic Cat area - but indicating these on the aerial photo made it clear that the routes are pretty well spread out. I sort of lump Cat Balou in with all the other non-Ice Crag routes, but it's clear that it lies closer to the crag than to Arctic Cat and Wet Wall. Nevertheless, the routes all lie within a span of about 10 minutes walk. See the photo for the general locations.

ICE CRAG - A small area, mostly steep, suitable for TR (60' static rope is very helpful to set up a few of the lines) or short leads. Faces S-SW and gets hit hard by the sun; in lean years the ice can be weak and delaminated by February.

Layout (described L to R) - short, unnamed moderate flow at L end, then 2-3 30' vertical pillars (Cat Scratch Fever, photo). 20' farther R the wall becomes slightly overhanging and the pillars have a tough time touching down. A few slanting cracks here hint at hard drytooling potential. Then the bottom slopes sharply downward with Cat's Meow midway down the slope. About 100' farther R there's a few short pillars (Southpaw) and an easy gully (Nine Lives).

WET WALL/ARCTIC CAT AREA - Arctic Cat and Schrodinger's Cat are long, low angle routes marking the left end of this area. The Wet Wall hosts Grumpy Cat et al. A bit R of here is the steep face of Krazy Cat. Cat-A-Pillar and Cat Balou are in the more broken rock band farther R. You'll see these above the boulder field if you are coming in from the Ice Crag.

Getting There

Park at the pull-off where the Northville-Placid Trail (NPT) crosses Benson Rd/CR 6 about 4.5 west of Rt 30. This is about 30 miles north of Thruway exit 27 at Amsterdam, NY. At the trailhead register you have a choice: Option 1: Red trail 0.3 mi. to the W shore of Woods Lake, then cross the lake heading about due North, and head up the open woods (you will cross the NPT about a minute above the lake). Option 2: Blue NPT that swings east away from the lake before running north along the east side of the lake. Of these, I recommend the red trail option. It is MUCH shorter and faster. The only reason to take the blue trail would be if the lake ice is not safe, but if you're here to ice climb, that's extremely unlikely.

GPS will help you locate the ice crag (555795, 4789816) and Arctic Cat. If you don't have GPS one idea is to walk farther up the lake, staying near the west shore, until you can see the crag, then follow a compass heading to it.

Note - the NPT was re-located to this area fairly recently and may be missing or improperly shown on some maps.

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