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Routes in (6) Anglin's Buttress

Anglin n' Danglin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jim Climbing S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Optigrab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Description

Anglin's Buttress is a striking, 350 foot, South West facing wall named after legendary Oregon adventure climber, Jim Anglin. It hosts two 5.11 sport climbs to the top, as well as a 5.12 base route and a couple neglected trad routes. All sport routes start from a common ledge, accessed by a bolt protected 5.4 move. Jim Climbing (.11c) is predominantly 5.10 climbing, with a short 5.11 boulder problem on the third pitch. In contrast, Anglin n' Danglin' (.11b) features sustained 5.11 difficulties for the first 300 feet.
Both routes come to an intersection at the top of the second pitch, making several possible variations. For a path of least resistance that maintains high quality, try Jim-Danglin' (fist two pitches of Jim Climbing into Anglin n Danglin), it goes at .10d, .11a, .10d, .11a, .7. Or, to pursue the line of strength, try Anglin-Climbing (.11a or .12b, .11b, .11c, .7)
All anchors sport the latest Metolius steel 'biners for an easy descent from any pitch with a single, 70 meter rope.
Helmets are highly recommended for all routes on Anglin's Buttress
Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

Getting There

Anglin's buttress is the next tower to the right/East of the Monument. Scramble up the main gully between the Monument and Anglin's for five minutes.

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Classic Climbing Routes at (6) Anglin's Buttress

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