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Routes in Frostbite Falls- Rock & Ice

Bullwinkle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dale's Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fearless Leader T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Natasha T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocky T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Elevation: 477 ft
GPS: 44.258, -69.096 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Robert Hall on Dec 5, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

A 100 ft cliff with both rock and ice routes.

In the most recent guidebook (4th Ed., 2010) EVERY route on this little crag got a star (in a "one star" system) Watch out for the poison ivy.

Rap the routes to descend.

The 2010 guide lists (L to R) the following routes:
Natasha 5.7+
Dale's Variation 5.6+
Boris Badunov M4
Fearless Leader 5.8
Rocky 5.9+
Bullwinkle 5.10a, and
Flying Squirrels Under the Moon of Discrimination NEI 4+, M4

Getting There

NOTE: GPS is still set for Maiden Cliff at road.

Down and left from the larger Pete's Puzzle area.

5 Total Climbs

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The closest legal parking is the boat launch at Barrett's Cove, so expect to walk almost a mile on a busy road with little or no shoulder. One strategy is to drop people and gear at the trailhead, then have the designated driver (i.e., loser of the coin toss) park and hoof it back.

Leave the road at the snowplow turnaround on the north side of Route 52, right at the Camden-Lincolnville town line, which is obvious and marked by concrete traffic barriers. A cairned trail heads diagonally left up to the very left side of the talus, then diagonally right -- this path avoids the otherwise abundant poison ivy.

The rock climbs all have bolted top anchors with rings or links. A single rope works for all the climbs. Oct 14, 2017
Climbed here Late June 2017, a week ago. It looked as though people have not climbed there in a while, at least a year or two, based on the lichen population.

The poison ivy is also making its way onto the base of the climbs. Trying to decide if its worth trying to eradicate it from there. Natasha, Dale Variation, and Fearless leader are short climbs, and do not inspire me to visit them again.

However Rocky (5.9) and Bullwinkle (5.10) were rad! Some of my favorite climbs at Camden though they need a lot of cleaning to take true form. Jun 27, 2017

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