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First Tier

California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > E Yosemite Fall… > Five Open Books
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Description

Five Open Books.

Getting There

The first tier of the Five Open Books area.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Fire Fly
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 2
Jughead
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 2
Antique
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 951
Munginella
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 959
Commitment
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Work Around the Skirt
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 247
The Surprise
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 110
Werner's Ant Trees
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 231
The Caverns
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
Try Again Ledge
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Hanging Teeth
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fire Fly
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Jughead
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Antique
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Munginella
 951
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Commitment
 959
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Work Around the Skirt
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Surprise
 247
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Werner's Ant Trees
 110
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Caverns
 231
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Try Again Ledge
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Hanging Teeth
 42
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Five Open Books descent options.  The normal downclimb that is often wet in the spring, and the dry alternative.
[Hide Photo] Five Open Books descent options. The normal downclimb that is often wet in the spring, and the dry alternative.
Five Open Books (photo stolen from Mike Morley - Thanks Mike!). Topo shows the classic The Caverns (5.8) to Selaginella (5.8). Eight pitches of 5.8 featuring liebacks, face climbing, off-width, finger cracks, & hand cracks. Pretty much everything you got!
[Hide Photo] Five Open Books (photo stolen from Mike Morley - Thanks Mike!). Topo shows the classic The Caverns (5.8) to Selaginella (5.8). Eight pitches of 5.8 featuring liebacks, face climbing, off-width, fin…
Cropped version of Five Open Books - Descent Options.
<br>
Shows the "Edge Trail" that can be avoided by taking a right turn at an inobvious point and walking along the base of the short upper wall.
[Hide Photo] Cropped version of Five Open Books - Descent Options. Shows the "Edge Trail" that can be avoided by taking a right turn at an inobvious point and walking along the base of the short upper wall.
Elevated view of Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls, with a Middle as well.  After topout via The Caverns (or Hanging Teeth), go ccw via 4th class to climber's right, up thru a manzanita patch near end, to a cliffed out perch.
[Hide Photo] Elevated view of Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls, with a Middle as well. After topout via The Caverns (or Hanging Teeth), go ccw via 4th class to climber's right, up thru a manzanita patch near…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment]
3rd Book


Does anyone know the name and rating of the route indicated with arrows in the picture? Climbed it last week - very enjoyable. Has 1 questionable bolt below the first "roof" and a sling on the corner of the second "roof". Required some large cams; clean rock. Aug 16, 2016
Bruno Beltran
Stanford, CA
[Hide Comment] In wetter years (such as this year), the waterfall on the walk-off can make a rappel seem necessary. There are bolts conveniently situated at the point where the going usually becomes too wet.

Alternatively, you can save time or pass a gumby party rappeling via a well established animal trail that can be found by maintaining the approximate elevation of the bolts for another 150' or so in the direction of the trail, then switchbacking down the grass and traversing drier rock. Jun 9, 2017
Roger Romani
San Francisco
[Hide Comment] We encountered a large, unafraid bear at the base of the lower tier which was clearly trying to get food out of packs left at the base. He ambled to within 15 feet of me and would have probably started breaking my pack open right next to me had I not grabbed it and sprinted up the first pitch halfway through changing my shoes. DON'T LEAVE PACKS AT THE BASE!! Nov 7, 2021