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Areas in Moonlight Crags

Moon, The 2 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Sunrise Slab 1 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Elevation: 5,291 ft
GPS: 40.173, -120.81 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Twinboas on Nov 21, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Don't like crowds? Looking for rock that grips like Velcro, has the colors of a tropical sunset, and provides a majestic bird's eye view high above a broad sweeping valley?

The 200 foot tall Moonlight Crags has a decidedly remote feeling, all just a short and easy walk from the car. The rock is porphyritic rhyolite, which is the same stuff that granite is made of, but instead of cooling slowly underground it erupted wildly at the surface. The result? Highly featured, mostly solid rock with incredible friction that makes for steep moderate climbs with tons of wonderful exposure.

Because of the eastern exposure, most cliff faces receive early morning sun and go into the shade by early afternoon, making this a great destination when it is too hot to climb anywhere else.

There are no developed campsites present, but it is possible to camp for free by the parking area. Please be aware of Forest Service rules and regulations, especially regarding fire permits.

There is a seasonal raptor closure (more info above). Future access depends on fostering good relationships with the Forest Service, so compliance would be appreciated. After lengthy discussions with the district biologist, the plan is that after a five year period they will re-evaluate and see if a partial seasonal closure is feasible (leaving the portion of the cliff nearest the parking lot open year round).

While this area used to have sport climbing routes they have since been taken down due to demands from the land managers. This does not mean that climbing is prohibited, merely that fixed anchors should not be used at this site. The individual route descriptions have been left intact for historical purposes.
No Fixed Anchors Permitted Details

Getting There

This crag is a two hour drive east of Chico on CA-70, but if you're tired of melting off the rock at Grizzly Dome on scorching summer days this is a fun place to explore.

Approach via Scenic Highway 70 heading east, which follows the scenic North Fork of the Feather River. For navigational purposes, the nearest civilization is the small town of Taylorsville, complete with a General Store (mostly sells local groceries), Hanson's Homemade Pies, and the Taylorsville Tavern.

Hanson's Homemade Pies in Taylorsville is an excellent place to stop by on your way to the crag, where you can buy a large variety of excellent, freshly made pies at $3 a slice.

As you drive through Taylorsville, take a left just past the general store which heads past houses, over a small bridge, and to a T intersection. Turn left onto Genesee Road, continue straight until you reach another T intersection. Turn right onto Diamond Mountain Road. Eventually, you will reach a poorly marked left turn for Moonlight Valley, which is what you want.

Cross a bridge over Lights Creek past an excellent swimming hole, and you will soon see the crags directly in front of you. Drive for several miles up a dirt road to the top of the valley and take the first left turn that heads back along the ridge. Be mindful as there are several sections of washed out ruts - a high clearance vehicle is certainly desirable but probably not necessary with careful driving. When you drive as far as you can (before the hairpin turn), you have arrived. Park where you like and begin hiking towards the ridge to your left.

Once you drop out of the trees near the parking area follow the trail up a cut path through the middle of a brushy hillside until you reach the crest of the ridge. Continue until you reach your final destination.

Approach takes about thirty minutes and is between 0.5 and 0.7 miles depending on where you're headed.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Moonlight Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Twinboas
Quincy, CA
Twinboas   Quincy, CA
As of October, 2017 the bolts have been removed on all of the routes. Please do not install new fixed hardware at this crag, as this is unfortunately considered incompatible with the land use designation by the Forest Service.

It is possible to set up natural anchors for some of the routes as climbing itself is not prohibited per se, although this will require some very extended/creative anchors and only allows for top roping. Be ready to do some scrambling and adventuring if these factors do not deter you! Oct 6, 2017
Henry Kroeker
Greenville
Henry Kroeker   Greenville
Road is clear to the parking lot, thanks whoever did that! Also might try and wrangle a team to do a little trail/trundle work? Lemme know....down to make it pretty. May 29, 2017
armchairalpinist
Issaquah, WA
armchairalpinist   Issaquah, WA
Looks like excellent rock Chris! If I make it to this area of Cali, I will definitely have to climb here! Nov 27, 2016

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