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Routes in Mystery Spire

Cracked Code T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inversion Virgin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mystery Spire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elevation: 5,187 ft
GPS: 34.914, -111.848 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Derek Field on Nov 20, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Description

Mystery Spire is a 200-foot tri-peaked pedestal sitting atop the large buttress/plateau on the east side of Boynton Canyon's entrance. It is visible from the parking lot if you know what you're looking for. The spectacular summit is well worth the effort.

Getting There

Follow the main Boynton Canyon Trail for 15-20 minutes to the base of Watch Out Grandpa. From there, contour eastward (up towards higher ground, away from the resort) along the base of the wall, bypassing two cliffed-out gullies before finally reaching a staircase-like (3rd/4th-class) chimney that allows easy passage to the upper tier where Mystery Spire is located. There is a faint trail most of the way, which is labeled as "Boynton Upper Vortex Trail" on Google Maps. Total: 30 minutes

A suggested approach for those interested in a full-value experience is to first climb the route Watch Out Grandpa (3 pitches, 5.10+, 3 stars). The final pitch of WOG plops you at the base of Mystery Spire and sets you up for a nice linkup.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mystery Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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I didn't find the chimney to be a problem, even with my big heavy pack. It really is like a 3rd class staircase. Pretty classic approach for Sedona. Plus, this chimney is part of a trail on Google Maps! Jul 25, 2017
Be warned! The chimney has some steep committing moves to get up. Definitely a hassle to get up with heavy packs, had to haul. Jun 15, 2017

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