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Routes in 5. Romance Novels

Going Steady TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hidden Target, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middlemarch TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New York to Dallas 33 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Smoke TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pride and Prejudice TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vanity Fair TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When Two Paths Meet TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Description

Less-than-vertical cliff with many features, some routes up to 60 feet tall.

Left (WNW) from the Good Book wall. Faces mainly SSW.

Top Rope access: The least difficult is to go around way left (NW) under next obvious cliff (Adventure Stories) and up steep through cleft (lat long approx N41.1465 W74.1673) on its Left side (could be dangerously slippery with wet leaves or ice) to reach top of cliffs. Then walk horizontal right (SE) about 150 ft to get above this sector, then down a little to edge of cliff - (Tree anchor with static line).

Another way might be to climb the route Northwest Passage
around the right end of the Adventure Strories rock, then traverse Right (E) along the top.

Or can scramble up around the Right side of this Romance Novels rock.

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Getting There

- - > See on this Photo

Three ways to get here:
a) First go to the Good Book wall, then hike / scramble WNW about 200 feet, going down past the base of two block cliffs. Stop below the first (right-hand) cliff.

b) From the junction of Tower Wall tier trail and the Good Book access trail, go steep up NE about 100 feet. At the top of the steep section, turn off Left and go 260 ft NW roughly horizontal across the top of the Wichquawanck + Nechtanc + Scheybichi + Tulpehocken cliffs. Then NNW short steep scramble (GPS lat long approx N41.1461 W74.1671) between cliffs. See two blocky cliffs, and scramble up NE to the Right-hand one.

c) First go to Basilisk sector, then around its right (east) end, up past Manayunk sector and scramble N steep gully between Manayunk and Tulpehocken sectors to a gentler part at NW end of a wide flat ledge. Then scramble N up another steep gully. See two blocky cliffs, and scramble up NE to the Right-hand one.

8 Total Climbs

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