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Routes in Devil's Thumb

Devil's Thumb Southeast Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hangnail T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 4,950 ft
GPS: 34.837, -111.767 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 711 total, 53/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Nov 7, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Description

Thumb-shaped spire sticking off the west side of Twin Buttes. Highly visible from many parts of Sedona, especially when driving south through town.

Currently there are two routes on this formation:
1. Southeast Chimney (5.7, 100 feet) is the original route to summit. Nice hand crack off ground followed by runout chimney.
2. Hangnail (5.10-, 190 feet) ascends a varied corner system on the northeast face. It's all about the second-pitch dihedral: splitter 4s to a small roof.

Getting There

Park at Mystic Trailhead, a small gravel pullout the north side of Chapel Road. Follow this trail 5-10 minutes and then take a right on Hog Wash trail. Follow Hog Wash for a couple minutes until you are looking up at Devils Thumb. Pick a line up to the thumb through washes and ridges. Total: 20-30 minutes.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Thumb

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hangnail
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hangnail 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
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