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Routes in 3. Bull Pen and JJ Slab(s)

Little Matador T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
No Bull T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Elevation: 2,035 ft
GPS: 44.04, -71.789 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 499 total, 37/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 5, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

Warm up in the Bull Pen (was the baseball term the reference?? Somehow I don't think so) where two 5.6 routes, and several variants, provide amusement.

The JJ Slab is a few minutes beyond the Bull Pen and has two routes, 5.5 and 5.6 although when we were there they were quite damp.

Getting There

Take the climber's path across the street from the AT parking. You'll walk through flat, open forest. After about 5 min (or less) there will be a rock step, and shortly thereafter the trail will split. (Little Crack Land and Lost River Crag are "straight ahead".)

Turn right for Bull Pen and all other Lost River Crags. You'll reach the very obvious slab of the Bull Pen in a few minutes from the "Crack Land" junction, JJ slab is, shall we say, "a bit less inviting", and is reached a few minutes beyond Bull Pen.

Again, I THINK I got the GPS on the correct outcrop!

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Was there, at the bull pen about 4 years ago. The line to the left, bolted anchors were loose. I went back a year later with a wrench and tightened them. I was there in July 2017 and climbed the line to the right and found both anchor bolts loose. This time I brought a wrench and tightened them. Probably wise to bring a wrench with you. About 4 years ago I was at the JJ slab and spent about 3hours cleaning the right side. It was covered with lichen. The climb is awesome with the crux at the first bolt. If you don't use the tree on the left the difficulty goes up maybe a couple of +s. The rest of the climb was fun. Be careful to back up some of the loose bolts on the route. The new guide book is wrong when rapping the route. You defiantly need two ropes as the climb goes at about 130 feet if you rap off a pine tree with the rap rings that I left there. If you go to the route anchors it would be another 20 feet. Very dirty climbing up above. With some traffic the climb will be awesome. I've been there about 5 times in the past 5 years. I've only seen 6 people there. Four of which were this past July 2017. Glad to see others enjoying this special place. Take the guide book as a guide, not the bible. Be safe and enjoy.

Pete Aug 8, 2017

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