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1. Little Crack Land

New Hampshire > WM: Kinsman Notch > 2. Lost River Crags (…

Description

ACCESS- ACCESS NOTICE - The North side of Kinsman Notch was the scene of a forest fire during Oct 2017.

Update 2019 -   Since the fire this entire area has seen extensive clean up and trail work by Jamie Cunningham and local climbers and most routes are climbable including all three pitches of Black Tourmaline.  The crags are all open now and expect to find lots of new growth ferns and small shrubs along the trail as nature takes care of the fire damage.  Jamie recommends folks bring in loppers (or hand clippers) and a small saw for any further trail and route maintenance. It also appears (to me) most bolts have been replaced...at least they all looked new to me on Lower Patina Wall in Sept 2019.

A nice selection of cracks. About 7 routes from 5.6 to 5.12a, most 5.6 to 5.9

NOTE: Lose Blocks - As of 9/28/19 There are some very loose toaster oven/microwave sized loose stones to the left of the Troll/Gargoyle anchors. Take care not to dislodge them with your feet while belaying or rapping as It wouldn't take much to knock them loose on those at the cliff base.

SEE MY COMMENTS FROM 10/14/24: find under Rib Rider, Lost River Crag page. Take and edit what you need for current trail conditions. I suggest all early notes on trail conditions be removed and revised with my current information. I will write more observations and revisions as I have more time- i.e. the LPW has had new routes added and older routes have been retro bolted to make them more like sport climbs with a spattering of trad gear where needed. All climbs have modern anchors. For example, Power Head is no longer an X-climb. It is now a enjoyable bolt protected climb. It is advised that a small trad rack be on board. LPW has seen all the traffic this summer (2024), and for good reasons. It is my mission to open up access to the other areas that have worthy climbing on them. 

The following crags are in bad shape to get to and quite possibly not climbable until climbers take it upon themselves to do some real trail work: Little Crack Land, Lost River Crag, Russian Arena, Upper Patina Wall, and the mysterious Never Never Land area that borders the Lost River Caves and Boulders tourist attraction land (likely nobody has been there since the routes were first done!).

Experience shows few people take the time to do any trail work. If each climbing party were take 30 minutes out of their day, it would make a difference to keep the main trails open. I am only asking to do the light, easy trail maintenance. I want to discourage people from doing any major work that might be against National Forest Policy. I think it reasonable to keep open already established trails.  Leave that to the developers (me) as we know this place intimately. This will be important on an ongoing basis during the climbing season to keep the undergrowth from encroaching into the trails. I will continue my work regardless.  

Jamie Cunningham

Getting There

Take the climber's path across the street from the AT parking.[ Just a bit to the right of "walking directly across the road", and well south(east)  of the "AT" trail .]  You'll walk through flat, open forest with cairns. After about 5 min (or less) the path will steepen, go over some larger rocks/small boulders and make a turn to the right. [slightly relocated from earlier days].   Here, move slightly left and up past a 3 trunked silver birch, to get to Little Crack Land. Lost River Crags is accessed by following the path beyond Little Crack Land.

For all other Lost River Crags, continue on the main path to the right.

I THINK I got the GPS on the correct rock outcroping!

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1
Interloper
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Gargoyle
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Troll
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Ogre
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Elf Crack
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Pimping Pinksky
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Interloper
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Gargoyle
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Troll
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Ogre
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Elf Crack
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Pimping Pinksky
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jon Sykes on the FA of Troll 5.8, 50'. Photo: Jamie Cunningham.
[Hide Photo] Jon Sykes on the FA of Troll 5.8, 50'. Photo: Jamie Cunningham.
RW fools around on one of the cracks of Little Crack Land
[Hide Photo] RW fools around on one of the cracks of Little Crack Land
Looking up at Little Crack Land (2019) from where the trail turns right to Bull Pen and the Patina Walls
[Hide Photo] Looking up at Little Crack Land (2019) from where the trail turns right to Bull Pen and the Patina Walls
John Bain leading Pixie 5.9, 50'. Photo by: Jamie Cunningham.
[Hide Photo] John Bain leading Pixie 5.9, 50'. Photo by: Jamie Cunningham.
Jon Sykes makes the FA, with John Bain belaying, of Ogre 5.9, 50'. Photo by: Jamie Cunningham.
[Hide Photo] Jon Sykes makes the FA, with John Bain belaying, of Ogre 5.9, 50'. Photo by: Jamie Cunningham.
Jamie Cunningham leading Elf Crack 5.8, 50'. Photo by: Jon Sykes.
[Hide Photo] Jamie Cunningham leading Elf Crack 5.8, 50'. Photo by: Jon Sykes.
Troll (5.8)
[Hide Photo] Troll (5.8)
Pixie
[Hide Photo] Pixie
Pimping Pinksky (5.12a)
[Hide Photo] Pimping Pinksky (5.12a)
Ogre (5.9)
[Hide Photo] Ogre (5.9)
Interloper (5.8)
[Hide Photo] Interloper (5.8)
Gargoyle
[Hide Photo] Gargoyle

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew P
North Bend, WA
[Hide Comment] Climbed here today for the first time. Looks like maybe the fire didn't impact this crag as much as some of the others? There were fallen trees along the base which made moving back and forth a bit difficult, but nothing too bad.

The anchors looked to be in good shape - the Gargoyle/Troll bolted anchor looked fine, and the Ogre/Elf Crack anchor also looked to be in great shape.

There are a few other climbs here but I only added the ones I climbed. The Notches book has info on the other climbs at this crag, as well as lots of other stuff not on MP! Jul 13, 2018
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the comment and "fire report". Jul 15, 2018
june m
elmore, vt
[Hide Comment] As of yesterday, the trail was pretty much completely overgrown. We tried to get up there and turned around. bring some trimming tools tools Jul 21, 2023
Justin Fraser
Rumney, NH
[Hide Comment] As of April 2025 the trail to little crack land is cut in to the base. Little more trimming needed around base but climbable! May 2, 2025