Little Crack Land Rock Climbing

ACCESS- ACCESS NOTICE - The North side of Kinsman Notch was the scene of a forest fire during Oct 2017.

Update 2019 -   Since the fire this entire area has seen extensive clean up and trail work by Jamie Cunningham and local climbers and most routes are climbable including all three pitches of Black Tourmaline.  The crags are all open now and expect to find lots of new growth ferns and small shrubs along the trail as nature takes care of the fire damage.  Jamie recommends folks bring in loppers (or hand clippers) and a small saw for any further trail and route maintenance. It also appears (to me) most bolts have been replaced...at least they all looked new to me on Lower Patina Wall in Sept 2019.

A nice selection of cracks. About 7 routes from 5.6 to 5.12a, most 5.6 to 5.9

NOTE: Lose Blocks - As of 9/28/19 There are some very loose toaster oven/microwave sized loose stones to the left of the Troll/Gargoyle anchors. Take care not to dislodge them with your feet while belaying or rapping as It wouldn't take much to knock them loose on those at the cliff base.

SEE MY COMMENTS FROM 10/14/24: find under Rib Rider, Lost River Crag page. Take and edit what you need for current trail conditions. I suggest all early notes on trail conditions be removed and revised with my current information. I will write more observations and revisions as I have more time- i.e. the LPW has had new routes added and older routes have been retro bolted to make them more like sport climbs with a spattering of trad gear where needed. All climbs have modern anchors. For example, Power Head is no longer an X-climb. It is now a enjoyable bolt protected climb. It is advised that a small trad rack be on board. LPW has seen all the traffic this summer (2024), and for good reasons. It is my mission to open up access to the other areas that have worthy climbing on them. 

The following crags are in bad shape to get to and quite possibly not climbable until climbers take it upon themselves to do some real trail work: Little Crack Land, Lost River Crag, Russian Arena, Upper Patina Wall, and the mysterious Never Never Land area that borders the Lost River Caves and Boulders tourist attraction land (likely nobody has been there since the routes were first done!).

Experience shows few people take the time to do any trail work. If each climbing party were take 30 minutes out of their day, it would make a difference to keep the main trails open. I am only asking to do the light, easy trail maintenance. I want to discourage people from doing any major work that might be against National Forest Policy. I think it reasonable to keep open already established trails.  Leave that to the developers (me) as we know this place intimately. This will be important on an ongoing basis during the climbing season to keep the undergrowth from encroaching into the trails. I will continue my work regardless.  

Jamie Cunningham