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Routes in 2-Robinson

Couloir du Pissoir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Fähndlimaa TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penn Alti TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pitone usato nelle dolomiti? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Robinson Ridge S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Silver Fern TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Cross TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
z'Vieri TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Description

Smaller sector in the high part of this crag. The part of the cliff below it does not have much sustained steep climbing (mostly scrambling).

The height of the steeper high part of the rock face 30-45 feet. Faces ENE.

Top-Roping: To access the top of this cliff (with possible tree and bush anchors), scramble up the obvious "Couloir du Pissoir" gully (4th class) on its south (left) side. Or can start near left side of base of sector 3 and scramble up right-to-left (roughly southwest) to reach the base of the steeper upper part. From the base of the upper part hike up around its left (south) side, then scramble up right (northwest) with a class 3+ move to the top.

Name: Doug Robinson grew up in Los Altos Hills. Enhanced his literary skills at Foothill College. Early drawn to sleeping out in less-civilized locations. Key stimulator of the shift to climbing "clean" without leaving scars or hardware in the rock. Moved to the Eastside in late 1960s and gathered a "hippie" group living below Cardinal Pinnacle west above Bishop. Soon did the first modern-era ski traverse of the Sierra crest south-to-north (without climbing skins and without a stove). Pioneered famous ice climbs and Buttermilks bouldering. Became a mountain guide and so introduced many others to the Eastside Sierra, later a leader of other guides as first president of AMGA. Wrote seminal essays for climbing topics and stories of Eastside mountain adventures [ see collection book ] -- and made a ground-breaking climbing video. - [ see Bio story ] - .

. . (previous name of this sector: The June Lake Loop has long been recognized as a little visit to Switzerland. "Gimmelwald" is a sport-climbing crag in central Switzerland famous for very difficult climbs, but also has some moderate routes. It could also be delightful to hike up to the village of Gimmelwald even with no interest in climbing that day).

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Getting There

hiking approach: To reach the start of the ridge route or the gully route,follow the instructions on the Silver Lake area description page to reach southern left-hand sectors 1 and 2.
. (typical time 5-9 minutes).

To reach the main high part, first follow the instructions on the Silver Lake area description page to reach southern left-hand sectors 1 and 2. Climb west up to the base of the obvious gully between sector 1 and sector 2. Turn left into sector 1 Croft and follow the instructions to get to the top of that -- except that when reach the gully higher up, instead of bearing left toward the top of sector Croft, continue up diagonal right across the high part of the gully. Then after leaving the gully, go down diagonal right to the bottom of the high part of this sector. (difficulty mostly class 2 some exposed, with a few moves of class 3).

- - > See on this Photo
. . . . also on this overview Photo

. . . . also this Photo of upper part

- - > See Access scrambles + trails, and Anchor locations on this Photo

Close-up of main upper part:
- - > See on this Photo

More difficult and strenuous (but shorter) is to climb west up the obvious gully (difficulty class 4). Before reaching the top of the gully, exit to the north (right side), then go down diagonal right to the bottom of the high part of this sector.

Time + effort estimate: From north end of parking lot to the base of this sector is about +`180 vertical feet over 0.20 mile distance (+55m over 0.33km), so typical range of hiking times 9-17 minutes.

GPS tracks for hiking/scrambling approaches -- view (or download) on
- - > this Map of the Silver Lake crag

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kenr  
Doug Robinson's most direct influence on me was his West-to-East ski traverse of the Sierra High Route in a single (very long) day. Helped me to imagine that I could dare to ski some shorter traverse -- perhaps in a longer time -- or perhaps in a single day. Dec 27, 2017

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