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Routes in 7-Melchsee

(to be deleted) TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Central - Left Gully TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C0
Central - Left Overlap TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central - Left Ridge TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Central - Right Overlap TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Obelix S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Slab - Right Edge TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Salamander S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Shelves - Wander Left TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shelves - Wander Right TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trail Slab - Face Right TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Trail Slab - Left Corner TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trail Slab - Right Corner TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trail Slab - Right Gully TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Elevation: 7,400 ft
GPS: 37.774, -119.129 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,006 total, 76/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 4, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Slab just left from the low section of sector 8 Miroir and below the high section of Miroir.
Faces ENE.

Top-Roping: To access the top of this sector, scramble up around its left side, or lead one of the bolt-protected routes (least difficult is "Salamander").

In addition to the two-bolt anchors at the top of several of the routes, there is a standing dead tree at the top of the route "Central - Right Overlap" which as of 2017 has a static rope attached to it, also a static rope attached to a tree above the route "Obelix" -- which could be used to help protect and/or aid reaching snchors for some routes from the top.

There is also a two-bolt facultative anchor above the route "Obelix", which could be used to help protect reaching anchore for some routes from the top. Or in making the transition to a higher pitch on sector Miroir.
. . (Bolts + hangers are 304 Stainless steel 3/8 inch - installed in 2017)

Also there are two or three live trees on the wide ledge at its top which could be used as "natural" top anchors (bring a static rope say 50 ft).

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

warning: This cliff (especially its left side) is fairly tall for Top-Roping. So if the belayer is at near the bottom of the climbing route, the elongation/stretching of the rope could be large -- so the climber could take a rather long fall (even though on close belay from above), and could hit a ledge or protruding rock, and get seriously hurt. Ideas for dealing with this dynamic-rope-stretch problem: (a) Have the belayer near the top instead of the bottom; (b) Use a special static or "semi-static" rope which will not stretch so much (but such a rope is not safe for first Leading to reach top); (c) Pull the rope extra tight when the climber is just three feet from the bottom, to take some of the stretch out, and keep it extra tight while climber continues up.
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Name: The June Lake Loop has long been recognized as a little visit to Switzerland. "Melchsee-Frutt" is a family crag under the Bonistock peak, overlooking a lake.

Pronounce sector "Melchsee" (using the German language of central Switzerland) - roughly as ... melkh-zay.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Getting There

hiking approach: Follow the instructions on the Silver Lake area description page to reach the bottom of sector 7.

- - > See where on this overview Photo
. . . . or this overview Photo

- - > See Access scrambles + trails, and Anchor locations on this Photo

Close-ups
- - > See route lines on this topo Photo

- - > See on this Photo
. . . . or this Photo of Left side | or this Photo of Right side

Time + effort estimate: From north end of parking lot to the base of this sector is about +125 vertical feet over 0.15 mile distance (+40m over 0.23km), so typical range of hiking times 7-13 minutes.

GPS tracks for hiking/scrambling approaches -- view (or download) on
- - > this Map of the Silver Lake crag

14 Total Climbs

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