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Routes in Big Face

Crow's Nest T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fontaine’s Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fragile Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heartbreaker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Medal of Honor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 7,770 ft
GPS: 38.33, -119.555 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,020 total, 73/month
Shared By: Rondo Bauer on Oct 14, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

This is a climbing area little known to the climbing world but well traveled by the Marine Corps. Named by the Marines, Big Face is used by the USMC Mountain Warfare Training Center to teach multi-pitch rock climbing, though as it is on Forest Service land, is open to the public and everyone is welcome to climb there. The rock at Big Face is predominately basalt. Pro placement is good, though the rock can be weathered and in places frangible. Natural anchors are available on top and bottom. In addition, many climbs have bolted anchors. Pitons and riveted hangars are over 20 years old and should not be used. Many bolted routes were done to aid the Marines in learning lead climbing, and as such may be placed where traditional protection could have been used.

Getting There

Two options for the approach. 1) Park at the pull-off on the left after the uphill hairpin above LTA (lat/long 38.3276571, -119.5552833). Walk across the street onto the obvious climber’s trail. Keeping left at forks will take you to the top of Big Face where you can set up top ropes or rap in, while going right will take to you the bottom. 2) Park at LTA, scramble up through the LTA cliffs and walk uphill to Big Face. This is the longer option but convenient if you wish to leave gear at the bottom or plan on climbing at LTA.

5 Total Climbs

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Jeff, the painted names have a long history here (at least since early nineties and probably way longer) at these USMCMWTC crags, much like the oversized anchor eye bolts that are used. I've gotten used to it, but agree it shouldn't be an adopted practice anywhere else on 108.

Imagine if they printed out topos for the hundreds (thousands?) of new trainees every Autumn. I suspect that would be more of a mess. Oct 11, 2017
Painted names? Very lame! Jul 29, 2017

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