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Areas in Eden Canyon

Eden Wall 1 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Heavenly Buttress 4 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

Description

A nice selection of sun and shade here, north, west and east facing walls, emphasis on shaded climbing in warmer months.
Good variety of routes from 5.10 to 5.12, but if you are looking to climb more at the 5.10 grade, prepare to bring a light trad rack.

Eden Wall routes tend to be steeper lines with a fair bit in the harder 5.12 arena. Can climb here all months, just keep in mind the shade takes over around 1pm in most months. Slight variations to aspect can put a route in the sun or keep in the shade an hour or two longer. Heavenly buttress sees day-long shade except for early morning sun on eastern-most routes in summer, and late day sun on western-most routes.

Can do just about everything with a single rack to gold camalot, and doubles in the tips sizes. You can even leave the Gold behind and get a way with just the red as your largest size. I would however suggest that only folks with experience placing gear climb at their limit on trad here, the placements can be subtle and tricky at times. With that said, experienced trad leaders will find generally good to bomber placements on all routes.

Getting There

Drive past main Diablo parking area, around Diablo Mesa, past first pumphouse on left and look for a dirt road leading to another pumphouse on left. This is parking for the Coxcomb trailhead. Keep driving to second pumphouse and park here, making sure not to park along any pumphouse infrastructure.

The hike up will take most parties about 35 to 45 minutes up, and 20 to 30 minutes out. It is a very scenic hike through a unique spring-fed canyon with cottonwood grottoes and intermittent pools.

Walk along fence back west, look for ladder over fence, and head up old decommissioned road to arroyo. Across the arroyo is Eden Canyon, a side canyon carved into the Cerros Del Rio Plateau above. Hike up the drainage to the head of the canyon and here you will see both the Heavenly Buttress and the Eden Walls.

One can stay in the canyon bottom the entire way to get to the base of the Heavenly Buttress. For the better and more straight-forward trail, look right once you hit the arroyo, and find cairns that mark a good trail to the base of the Eden Wall at the Judas Sector. The trail follows an old cattle trail and is fairly wide in some sections.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eden Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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