Eden Canyon Rock Climbing
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Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Good variety of routes from 5.10 to 5.12, but if you are looking to climb more at the 5.10 grade, prepare to bring a light trad rack. The highest density of trad climbs are at the north-facing Heavenly Buttress starting at 5.9. These are worth doing.
Eden Wall is the long east-facing wall on your right as you hike up. Routes tend to be steeper lines with a fair bit in the 5.12- arena. Can climb here all months, just keep in mind the shade takes over around 1pm in most months. Slight variations to aspect can put a route in the sun or keep in the shade an hour or two longer. Heavenly buttress sees day-long shade except for early morning sun on eastern-most routes in summer, and late day sun on western-most routes.
Can do just about everything with a single rack to gold camalot, and doubles in the tips sizes. You can maybe leave the Gold behind and get a way with just the red as your largest size. I would however suggest that only folks with experience placing gear climb at their limit on trad here, the placements can be subtle and tricky at times. With that said, experienced trad leaders will find generally good to bomber placements on all routes.
The hike up will take most parties about 35 to 45 minutes up, and 20 to 30 minutes out. It is a very scenic hike through a unique spring-fed canyon with cottonwood grottoes and intermittent pools.
Walk along fence back west, look for ladder over fence, and head up old decommissioned road to arroyo. Directly across the arroyo is Eden Canyon, a side canyon carved into the Cerros Del Rio Plateau above. As you enter the arroyo Ancho, you can look upstream and notice some of the scenic formations of the Diablo Canyon cliffs around the Grotto. Look for cairns that mark the trail on the right side of the drainage. This is a good trail to the base of the Eden Wall at the Judas Sector which follows an old cattle trail and is fairly wide in some sections.
One can also stay in the canyon bottom the entire way to get to the base of the Heavenly Buttress via some fun scrambling in a very pretty setting that crosses a spring and some neat formations.
Classic Climbing Routes at Eden Canyon
Days w Precip