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Eden Canyon Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 6,000 ft | 1,829 m |
| GPS: |
35.80605, -106.15551 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 58,330 total · 588/month | |
| Shared By: | Aaron Miller on Oct 13, 2016 | |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
A nice selection of sun and shade here, north, west and east facing walls, emphasis on shaded climbing in warmer months.
Good variety of routes from 5.10 to 5.12, but if you are looking to climb more at the 5.10 grade, prepare to bring a light trad rack. The highest density of trad climbs are at the north-facing Heavenly Buttress starting at 5.9. These are worth doing.
Eden Wall is the long east-facing wall on your right as you hike up. Routes tend to be steeper lines with a fair bit in the 5.12- arena. Can climb here all months, just keep in mind the shade takes over around 1pm in most months. Slight variations to aspect can put a route in the sun or keep in the shade an hour or two longer. Heavenly buttress sees day-long shade except for early morning sun on eastern-most routes in summer, and late day sun on western-most routes.
Can do just about everything with a single rack to gold camalot, and doubles in the tips sizes. You can maybe leave the Gold behind and get a way with just the red as your largest size. I would however suggest that only folks with experience placing gear climb at their limit on trad here, the placements can be subtle and tricky at times. With that said, experienced trad leaders will find generally good to bomber placements on all routes.
Good variety of routes from 5.10 to 5.12, but if you are looking to climb more at the 5.10 grade, prepare to bring a light trad rack. The highest density of trad climbs are at the north-facing Heavenly Buttress starting at 5.9. These are worth doing.
Eden Wall is the long east-facing wall on your right as you hike up. Routes tend to be steeper lines with a fair bit in the 5.12- arena. Can climb here all months, just keep in mind the shade takes over around 1pm in most months. Slight variations to aspect can put a route in the sun or keep in the shade an hour or two longer. Heavenly buttress sees day-long shade except for early morning sun on eastern-most routes in summer, and late day sun on western-most routes.
Can do just about everything with a single rack to gold camalot, and doubles in the tips sizes. You can maybe leave the Gold behind and get a way with just the red as your largest size. I would however suggest that only folks with experience placing gear climb at their limit on trad here, the placements can be subtle and tricky at times. With that said, experienced trad leaders will find generally good to bomber placements on all routes.
Getting There
Drive past main Diablo parking area, around Diablo Mesa, past first pumphouse on left and look for a dirt road leading to another pumphouse on left. This is parking for the Coxcomb trailhead. Keep driving to second pumphouse and park here, making sure not to park along any pumphouse infrastructure.
The hike up will take most parties about 35 to 45 minutes up, and 20 to 30 minutes out. It is a very scenic hike through a unique spring-fed canyon with cottonwood grottoes and intermittent pools.
Walk along fence back west, look for ladder over fence, and head up old decommissioned road to arroyo. Directly across the arroyo is Eden Canyon, a side canyon carved into the Cerros Del Rio Plateau above. As you enter the arroyo Ancho, you can look upstream and notice some of the scenic formations of the Diablo Canyon cliffs around the Grotto. Look for cairns that mark the trail on the right side of the drainage. This is a good trail to the base of the Eden Wall at the Judas Sector which follows an old cattle trail and is fairly wide in some sections.
One can also stay in the canyon bottom the entire way to get to the base of the Heavenly Buttress via some fun scrambling in a very pretty setting that crosses a spring and some neat formations.
The hike up will take most parties about 35 to 45 minutes up, and 20 to 30 minutes out. It is a very scenic hike through a unique spring-fed canyon with cottonwood grottoes and intermittent pools.
Walk along fence back west, look for ladder over fence, and head up old decommissioned road to arroyo. Directly across the arroyo is Eden Canyon, a side canyon carved into the Cerros Del Rio Plateau above. As you enter the arroyo Ancho, you can look upstream and notice some of the scenic formations of the Diablo Canyon cliffs around the Grotto. Look for cairns that mark the trail on the right side of the drainage. This is a good trail to the base of the Eden Wall at the Judas Sector which follows an old cattle trail and is fairly wide in some sections.
One can also stay in the canyon bottom the entire way to get to the base of the Heavenly Buttress via some fun scrambling in a very pretty setting that crosses a spring and some neat formations.
Classic Climbing Routes at Eden Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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Guidebooks (6)
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