Elevation: 6,000 ft
GPS: 35.806, -106.156 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 29,858 total · 645/month
Shared By: A M on Oct 13, 2016
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

A nice selection of sun and shade here, north, west and east facing walls, emphasis on shaded climbing in warmer months.
Good variety of routes from 5.10 to 5.12, but if you are looking to climb more at the 5.10 grade, prepare to bring a light trad rack. The highest density of trad climbs are at the north-facing Heavenly Buttress starting at 5.9. These are worth doing.

Eden Wall is the long east-facing wall on your right as you hike up. Routes tend to be steeper lines with a fair bit in the 5.12- arena. Can climb here all months, just keep in mind the shade takes over around 1pm in most months. Slight variations to aspect can put a route in the sun or keep in the shade an hour or two longer. Heavenly buttress sees day-long shade except for early morning sun on eastern-most routes in summer, and late day sun on western-most routes.

Can do just about everything with a single rack to gold camalot, and doubles in the tips sizes. You can maybe leave the Gold behind and get a way with just the red as your largest size. I would however suggest that only folks with experience placing gear climb at their limit on trad here, the placements can be subtle and tricky at times. With that said, experienced trad leaders will find generally good to bomber placements on all routes.

Getting There

Drive past main Diablo parking area, around Diablo Mesa, past first pumphouse on left and look for a dirt road leading to another pumphouse on left. This is parking for the Coxcomb trailhead. Keep driving to second pumphouse and park here, making sure not to park along any pumphouse infrastructure.

The hike up will take most parties about 35 to 45 minutes up, and 20 to 30 minutes out. It is a very scenic hike through a unique spring-fed canyon with cottonwood grottoes and intermittent pools.

Walk along fence back west, look for ladder over fence, and head up old decommissioned road to arroyo. Directly across the arroyo is Eden Canyon, a side canyon carved into the Cerros Del Rio Plateau above. As you enter the arroyo Ancho, you can look upstream and notice some of the scenic formations of the Diablo Canyon cliffs around the Grotto. Look for cairns that mark the trail on the right side of the drainage. This is a good trail to the base of the Eden Wall at the Judas Sector which follows an old cattle trail and is fairly wide in some sections.

One can also stay in the canyon bottom the entire way to get to the base of the Heavenly Buttress via some fun scrambling in a very pretty setting that crosses a spring and some neat formations.

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eden Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Baby Jesus
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
The Betrayal
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Cannery Prow
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Judas Priest
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Cup of Gold
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
The Cruxifiction
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Resurrection
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Raising Cain
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Heaven Sent
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
The Last Supper
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Twist of Cain
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Traipse of Wrath
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Dubious Battle
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Sweet Thursday
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Tarantula Hawk
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Baby Jesus Eden Wall > Judas Crag Sector
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Betrayal Eden Wall > Judas Crag Sector
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cannery Prow E of Eden
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Judas Priest Eden Wall > Judas Crag Sector
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Cup of Gold E of Eden
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Cruxifiction Eden Wall > Judas Crag Sector
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Resurrection Eden Wall > Judas Crag Sector
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Raising Cain E of Eden
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Heaven Sent Heavenly Buttress
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Last Supper Eden Wall > Judas Crag Sector
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Twist of Cain E of Eden
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Traipse of Wrath E of Eden
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dubious Battle E of Eden
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Sweet Thursday E of Eden
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Tarantula Hawk E of Eden
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Eden Canyon »

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