Eden Canyon Rock Climbing
|GPS:||35.806, -106.156 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||A M on Oct 13, 2016|
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On July 1, 2020, the New Mexico state governor issued an executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on July 1, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
Good variety of routes from 5.10 to 5.12, but if you are looking to climb more at the 5.10 grade, prepare to bring a light trad rack. The highest density of trad climbs are at the north-facing Heavenly Buttress starting at 5.9. These are worth doing.
Eden Wall is the long east-facing wall on your right as you hike up. Routes tend to be steeper lines with a fair bit in the 5.12- arena. Can climb here all months, just keep in mind the shade takes over around 1pm in most months. Slight variations to aspect can put a route in the sun or keep in the shade an hour or two longer. Heavenly buttress sees day-long shade except for early morning sun on eastern-most routes in summer, and late day sun on western-most routes.
Can do just about everything with a single rack to gold camalot, and doubles in the tips sizes. You can maybe leave the Gold behind and get a way with just the red as your largest size. I would however suggest that only folks with experience placing gear climb at their limit on trad here, the placements can be subtle and tricky at times. With that said, experienced trad leaders will find generally good to bomber placements on all routes.
The hike up will take most parties about 35 to 45 minutes up, and 20 to 30 minutes out. It is a very scenic hike through a unique spring-fed canyon with cottonwood grottoes and intermittent pools.
Walk along fence back west, look for ladder over fence, and head up old decommissioned road to arroyo. Directly across the arroyo is Eden Canyon, a side canyon carved into the Cerros Del Rio Plateau above. As you enter the arroyo Ancho, you can look upstream and notice some of the scenic formations of the Diablo Canyon cliffs around the Grotto. Look for cairns that mark the trail on the right side of the drainage. This is a good trail to the base of the Eden Wall at the Judas Sector which follows an old cattle trail and is fairly wide in some sections.
One can also stay in the canyon bottom the entire way to get to the base of the Heavenly Buttress via some fun scrambling in a very pretty setting that crosses a spring and some neat formations.
Classic Climbing Routes at Eden Canyon
Days w Precip