La Piscineta Rock Climbing
|GPS:||42.277, -0.087 Google Map · Climbing Map|
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|Shared By:||MattL on Oct 7, 2016|
DescriptionLa Piscineta is a breathtaking sector which is not to be missed. This massive overhanging alcove is perched right over the river and is in a more secluded part of the canyon. Due to the remote location, this crag sees less traffic and is a good option on busy climbing days. The cliff faces west, so on hot days it is best to get an early start to beat the sun. In September however, it only is in direct sunlight for a couple of hours. Just enough time to take a swim, eat something, and prepare for the next redpoint burn.
Routes from left to right, as listed in Escalada en Rodellar:
1. Lilou 6c, 25m Equipador: P. Soule
2. Cada loco con su tema 8b+, 45m Equipador: D. Lanne
3. Adios pepito 8a, 45m Equipador: A. Gallego
4. Black pearl P1:8a+, P2:8c+, 20/40m Equipador: P. Girard
5. De buda madre, project Equipador: M. Catita
6. Sur la route de madison P1:6c+, P2:8b+, 15/50m Equipador: Ch. Sebie
7. Pequena estrella P1:8b+, P2:8b+, 35/50m Equipador: Ch. Sebie
8. Las dos golondrinas de la piscineta 8a+, 35m Equipador: S. Casteran/M. Grand
9. Pieds nus dans la terre sacree 8a, 25m Equipador: S. Casteran
10. Pim pam plouf 7b+, 25m Equipador: D. Lanne
11. Cosi fan tutte P1:8a+, P2:8c/+, 35/55m Equipador: S. Casteran
11a. De battre mon coeur s'est arrete 9a?, 55m Equipador: S. Casteran/D. Andrada
12. Detectives P1:6c+, P2:8a, P3:9a+, 20/35/50m Equipador: D. Andrada/C. Sharma
12a. Riena de la pinscineta 8c, 30m Equipador: D. Andrada/C. Sharma
12b. Pa'los colegas 8b, 35m Equipador: D. Andrada
Route 1 is isolated 30 yards to the right of the main climbing, routes 2-6 are on the left 'upper deck' accessed by fixed lines, roues 7-12b are on the main staging area, and along the fixed line on the right.
Getting ThereThere are three options to approach this crag. Option 1 is the most adventurous, but option 3 is the most practical for non-locals and really not that bad. Trails are well established and marked with cairns.
Option 1: Bring an inflatable boat or make friends with someone who has a boat. Park at the El Puente camp ground and paddle your way upstream for approximately 200 meters. Then, hike upstream for 30 minutes until you see the crag on the right side. Can't miss it. Total time: 30-40 minutes.
Option 2: If camping at El Puente this might be the option for you. From the campground, cross the Rio Mascun and hike due west up to the top of the ridge. Eventually, you will come to a trail leading down to the Rio Alcanadre. At the river, hike upstream for 100 meters. Can't miss it. Total time: 1 hour and 20-30 minutes.
Option 3: If staying at Kalandraka or Valle de Rodellar, this is your option. From the city, hike down the main access trail to Mascun. Make a left and head downstream approximately 200 meters. Just after the Ali-baba cave, locate a trail heading west up to the ridge top. At the top, the trail veers south. After 10-15 minutes hiking along the ridge top, you will come to a trail junction. This junction is where option 2 and 3 merge. Head right and it will deposit you into the Rio Alcanadre. Approximately 100 meters upstream and on the right is the crag. Total time: 1 hour
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season