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CM: Capen Park

Missouri

Description

Small crag with about 20 routes and around 50' tall. Most of the routes are top roped due to the nature of the limestone. Very easy access, so beware of non-climbers at the top of the cliffs.

There are a few bolts on top of the cliff but expect to build natural anchors off the trees up top.

Getting There

From the University of Missouri - Columbia: Head south on S College Avenue crossing through the intersection with E Stadium Rd. College Avenue becomes S Rock Quarry Rd. Drive past the quarry and Capen Park is down a very short dirt road on your left.

1 minute approach from parking. Walk down to the creek to look up at the routes or just head to the top and drop your ropes if you know what you want to set up.

Guidebook



Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

June 2011 -<br> The 13-year cicadas recently emerged and are buzzing across 15 different states, including Missouri. In Columbia and surrounding areas, the group is absolutely riotous.
[Hide Photo] June 2011 - The 13-year cicadas recently emerged and are buzzing across 15 different states, including Missouri. In Columbia and surrounding areas, the group is absolutely riotous.
Learning the ropes
[Hide Photo] Learning the ropes
Columbia Parks and Recreation sign for Capen Park climbing
[Hide Photo] Columbia Parks and Recreation sign for Capen Park climbing
The Open Book
[Hide Photo] The Open Book

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

James Dolph
Columbia, MO
[Hide Comment] there are actually 38 posted routes at this park. i'll do my best to add them to mountain project. there is a sport crag located near the main cliff that has 10 sport routes on it ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. the main cliff has 28 routes and all of these can be found at

rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor…

this should hold everyone over until i can get the routes posted Nov 8, 2008
Jordan Williams
Moberly, MO
[Hide Comment] Does anyone have info on the bolted routes on the south side of The Drive In area? Jan 28, 2018
Will Haden
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] @Jordan they are short and dirty. We only climbed a couple routes that were 5.8-5.9. I think the longest was 3 bolts. Park in the gravel pull off just over the bridge and follow the faint trail down to the base. Feb 15, 2018
Anthony Bradford
missouri
[Hide Comment] This has been asked before, but I am also wondering about the routes at Drive in. Seems like the routes at the Trundle Wall are accurate, but no one seems to know anything about the bolted lines at the second wall and the alleged third wall.
Does anyone have any details about them?

There appears to also be bolted lines on the far right side of Capen's Main Wall which I would be interested in knowning more about.

For anyone interested, there is a snapshot of the now defunct rockclimbing.com available on archive.org. Capen Park's page: web.archive.org/web/2018051…
Still not a lot of usable information though. Dec 9, 2024