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Routes in Armory Wall

Catapult S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Court Jester S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crossbow S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
In Depends Pants Day S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pike, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sabre S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Space Pants S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
War Hammer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 7,904 ft
GPS: 38.989, -119.909 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 4,225 total, 279/month
Shared By: Refuge Jared on Sep 8, 2016
Admins: Justin Johnsen
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Description

The Armory Wall has some of the most featured rock here, providing somewhat steep routes with deep solid jugs that rate 5.5-5.8. There is more shade in the morning or by trees at Space Pants 5.8 and the gully where Court Jester 5.8 is found. Like the Village Wall, Armory has good elevation, but it has more West facing routes which offer wider views of the Lake.

Note that routes Left/North of Space Pants 5.8 are very difficult to approach with a dog and "The Platform" may not be a safe area for kids or dogs depending on age and behavior.

Getting There

Look for cairns Left of the trail immediately after the Castle Gates (about 20 feet). This trail will take you down to the main approach trail at the base of Castle Rock; follow the cairns down through the East Gully. At the base of the East Gully you will meet the main climbing area trail where you turn Right. Continue on this trail past the base of the main crag (Village Wall). Walk along the top of a fallen tree to a trail continuing along the base of the crag.

The first route you will be able to see (Court Jester 5.8) starts in a gully with a giant chockstone (about the size of a VW Bug) suspended above the belayer's stance and has a 3' roof 2/3 up the route. This is the South East side of Armory Wall.

Continue along the base to the South West corner of this area to find start of The Pike 5.9 which is next to a tree (note that the 1st pitch of The Pike is about 5.6).

Turn the corner and follow the West side of the crag past Space Pants 5.8. The trail goes up through a "corner" between the crag and a large boulder where a tree grows. Climb up through this corner. If you brought a dog, you will have to carry/pass them up this part--quite challenging as you need your hands to climb it. Once you come up to level ground from there, go straight to find Untitled 5.7, then Catapult 5.7 just beyond a tree in a corner, or hike up "The Platform" on your Right to find Cross Bow 5.5, Sabre 5.6, and War Hammer 5.8.

Note that "The Platform" may not be a safe area for kids or dogs depending on age and behavior.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Armory Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crossbow
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Catapult
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In Depends Pants Day
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sabre
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Hammer
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Space Pants
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Court Jester
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Pike
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crossbow 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Catapult 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
In Depends Pants Day 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Sabre 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
War Hammer 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Space Pants 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport, TR
Court Jester 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Pike 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Armory Wall »

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Easy approach, enough easy/moderate climbing to fill an afternoon, and the views are killer. Sep 27, 2017
Melissa Thaw
Merced, CA & South Lake Tahoe
Melissa Thaw   Merced, CA & South Lake Tahoe
Lots of bolts (bring lots of draws). Very well protected, so a great place to learn to lead and practice clipping bolts. Lots of super fun, easier routes and amazing views! Thank you for putting these routes up! Jul 5, 2017

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