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Routes in Village Wall

Bridge Tender S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillage the Village S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Village Idiot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Village People S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elevation: 7,685 ft
GPS: 38.989, -119.909 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,348 total, 152/month
Shared By: Refuge Jared on Sep 8, 2016
Admins: Justin Johnsen
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Description

WARNING: These routes are almost precisely 30 meters and can be climbed with a 60 meter rope, but TIE A STOPPER KNOT and mind your positioning (stand close to the wall) as you lower the climber to the ground as a precaution so as to not run the end of the rope through the belay device!

The rock here is mostly good, but are a few loose blocks; test holds before trusting them and yell "ROCK" "like someone's gonna die" if anything comes down. Even quarter size rocks seem like they've come out of a slingshot when they fall off Village Wall because of its length and angle.

You find Village Wall as you approach the larger "main crag." Sunny on the rock and shaded by trees at the base. Routes start vertical but with juggy holds, continue at a low angle (that is uncompromisingly well protected), and usually end high on a vertical finish. There is a great beginner's multipitch here (Village People: 5.6 at the 1st pitch and 5.5 at the 2nd).

Getting There

Look for cairns Left of the trail immediately after the Castle Gates (less than 20 feet). This trail will take you down to the main approach trail at the base of Castle Rock; follow the cairns down through the East Gully. At the base of the East Gully you will meet the main climbing area trail where you turn Right. Continue along this trail to the main crag where you will find Village Wall.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Village Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Village Idiot
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Village People
Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridge Tender
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pillage the Village
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Village Idiot 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Village People 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 2 pitches
Bridge Tender 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Pillage the Village 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Village Wall »

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