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Areas in Falesia Castello

Settore A 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Elevation: 1,300 ft
GPS: 45.66, 10.618 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 429 total · 20/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Aug 31, 2016
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath
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Description [Suggest Change]

A beautiful view and fun groove climbing make this a crag well worth visiting. The view of lake Garda from the left side of the main crag or at the anchors is breath-taking. The climbing is split into two crags; Settore A is the first one you reach and Settore B is accessed by rappelling from an anchor to the left of Settore A.
The well-protected climbs often follow many many water grooves which have ground their way through the very compact rock, with a good helping of pockets and crimps. There are also several crack climbs (also bolted). In many climbs, there is a reliance on friction climbing where good footwork is the key.
There are many 2 pitch routes which can be done in a single push if you plan accordingly (longer runners or skipping bolts). If you want to clip every bolt in a two-pitch route, bring along 20 quickdraws. My set of 14 + an alpine quickdraw (tripled up runner with two carabiners) was enough for our visit. The 2nd pitches are quite slabby.
Due to the south-facing aspect, the best seasons to climb here are Spring and Autumn. Summer climbing is possible if you're willing to get out early, but by 10a.m. it starts getting too hot.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

The approach is about 10-15 minutes of half uphill/half flat walking. The guidebook I used has an incorrect description for reaching the crag, so print out these directions to at least supplement your guidebook.
To reach the crag, put Gaino in your GPS and drive there. Gaino is located near and above (i.e. West of) Toscolano Maderno. Our GPS sent us to a parking area in the heart of the town (see pictures). From here, continue towards the mountains (Mt. Castello is the one on the right) and take a right to drive through another little parking area and past some houses. It opens up again and on your left is a sign with a picture of a horse pointing to a stables ("scuderia" in Italian) up the hill. Follow this and take the first turn left to drive past what appears to be an apartment complex. Take the right turn at the hairpin to go uphill until you reach the parking in a left hairpin turn shown in the pictures. The GPS coordinates indicate this parking area.
From here, continue walking up the road and take the left at the sign (shown in the pictures) towards Mt. Castello and the climbing. Just keep walking straight down the gravel path and you can't go wrong. Cross the landslide of broken stone on the left and keep following the path straight ahead until you reach the rock.

Accomodation

[Suggest Change]
There is an apartment for rent at the trailhead to the crag. It may or may not be this one: gardahouseholiday.com/apart… Additionally, there are two B&Bs just 1km (max) down the hill, right near where the sign to the stables is.

6 Total Climbs

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