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Hourglass Canyon

Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd

Getting There

The canyon is located 100 feet down canyon and across the street from the Wiper Wall. It is a 1 minute approach from the road.

Description

One of the prettiest spots in Maple, a quite, narrow canyon with small trees providing shade. The routes are fun with thoughtful climbing on mostly good quality rock (Its Maple so of course there is choss) Not to be missed.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Gimme Shelter
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 28
Hangman
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Bango
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 17
Grace Under Pressure
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Spoonin'
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Chunder
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Feline Fortitude
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 33
Fist Full of Cobbles
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 33
Hang 'em High
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Light My Fire
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gimme Shelter
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hangman
 28
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Bango
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Grace Under Pressure
 17
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Spoonin'
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Chunder
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Feline Fortitude
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Fist Full of Cobbles
 33
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hang 'em High
 33
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Light My Fire
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crystal getting to the first friction section.
[Hide Photo] Crystal getting to the first friction section.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This area (especially the routes behind the large boulder) is loose, dirty, and sketchy. Tons of big cobbles raining down. Go elsewhere/ be careful. Jul 24, 2019
[Hide Comment] Piggy back on Austin, bring a welders mask for the belayer if climbing near the boulder. Its raining pebbles and cobbles Jun 1, 2020
[Hide Comment] There is an area at the front of the canyon where you can (and should!) Stage any kids, pets, and people currently not climbing.
We did the right 10a and didn't have any issues. It appears to be 5+ years old. On the left 10a, we took the left split and ended up on a new route. I pulled off a huge cobble that probably would have been fatal even with a helmet if it impacted anyone below me. Use caution on anything that hasn't been on mt project for any length of time (as of this date that variation is still not on the site). May 31, 2023