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Routes in 4-Capucin

Block South Corner TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Block Southeast Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
O Sole Mio TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Description

One sport route with bolt protection and anchor, near the left end.
Sector overall faces WSW.

Just as we recognize the June Lake Loop as a little visit to Switzerland, so we feel the featured granite of Rush as a taste of the famous granite of Chamonix Mont Blanc in France . . .
"Capucin" is for the Grand Capucin, a "mythic" tower rising up out of the glacier over Cirque Maudit (and just right from the Trident du Tacul). The "big dream" objective of many Chamonix rock climbers. (Though reached more easily by the lift up from Italy).
. ("capucin" is a historical order of monks who wore a special hat -- pronounced in French something like cahp-you-sehn).

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Getting There

Follow the instructions on the Rush area description page to reach sector 7 Midi. Then turn Left and walk/scramble N about 350 feet (with some ups + downs) to reach this sector. (9-17 minutes)

--> see Map
--> see Photo overview from NW
--> see Photo overview from W

--> see Photo Left side sectors 1 2 3 4

3 Total Climbs

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