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Routes in 8-Cosmiques

Affordable Care T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cohiba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guanobita T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hand Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left Slab - Central TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Slab - Far Left Gully TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Left Slab - Left Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Slab - Left Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Near Left Gully S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Right Flake TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

Lower Left side is a sideways-slanting slab. Lower Right side is a slightly overhanging wall.
Faces WSW.

Lower Left has a bolt far left [ see Photo ] - perhaps another route not yet published?

Top-Roping: A way to get access to set up anchor at top of the right side of this sector is by first hiking/scrambling up steep Right toward sector 9 Envers. But before reaching it, scramble up Left a little ways, then traverse Left across upper part of South-facing wall (4th class exposed), then continue traversing north (3rd class) above top of sector 8 Cosmiques lower wall.

name: Just as we recognize the June Lake Loop as a little visit to Switzerland, so we feel the featured granite of Rush as a taste of the famous granite of Chamonix Mont Blanc in France . . .
"Cosmiques" is a high mountain refuge / hut / hotel (after a station for research on cosmic rays) near the top station of the mechanical lift which quickly brings climbers up from the valley floor. Makes a great base for climbing multiple rock (or ice/snow) routes on several peaks nearby. The "Eperon des Cosmiques" has several multi-pitch rock routes. A very popular alpine mixed route on rock + ice + snow is also nearby, the Arete des Cosmiques).

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Getting There

Follow the instructions on the Rush area description page to reach sector 7 Midi. Then turn Right and hike up a steep slope 80-100 feet on dirt + grass + sagebrush + rocks to reach this sector. (10-20 minutes)

Another way to reach this sector: From the East end of the log bridge, at first go NE 15-20 feet, then walk E about 65 feet through forest, then up a short steep embankment trending right up to flat. (Note carefully the appearance of the trees and other features here, so you can find it again on return).
Next hike uphill ENE about 500 feet, at first through sagebrush, then scrambling on boulders, then a steeper slope on dirt + grass + rocks to reach sector 8 Cosmiques.
. . Total hiking +200 vertical feet over 0.19 mile distance. Typical range of times 9-18 minutes.

If already at sector 9 Envers, hike N down a steep slope about 100 feet on dirt + grass + sagebrush + rocks to reach this sector.

--> see Map

--> see Photo overview from W

GPS tracks for hiking/scrambling approaches -- view (or download) on
- - > this Map of the Rush crag

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