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Routes in 1-Papillons

Low Right Direct T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lower Right Arete TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 7,220 ft
GPS: 37.814, -119.108 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: kenr on Aug 8, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Left-most sector of the main wall of Rush. Faces WSW.
Left side is shorter but mostly steeper than vertical. Right side is taller and (as of 2016) has one 2-bolt anchor, but no intermediate bolts going up to it -- presumably intended as a
Trad lead route, but (as of August 2016) its difficulty and protection are unknown, and we're eager to learn its Name + FA history.

Top-Roping? Can access the top by scrambling up around the left (N) end, a bit exposed on sloping ramps.

Just as we recognize the June Lake Loop as a little visit to Switzerland, so we feel the featured granite of Rush as a taste of the famous granite of Chamonix Mont Blanc in France . . .
"Papillons" is for the Arete des Papillons, a fun popular 5.8-5.9 route on the Aiguille du Peigne -- located on the "front" (W) side of the Chamonix needles, overlooking the main valley. Easily reached as a single-day outing from the Plan d'Aiguille mid-station of the mechanical lift.
. ("papillons" is the French word for butterflies -- pronounced something like pah-pee-yohn).

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Getting There

Follow the instructions on the Rush area description page to reach sector 7 Midi. Then turn Left and walk/scramble N about 700 feet (with some ups + steep downs) to reach this sector. (10-20 minutes)

Or at times of low water flow in Rush Creek, consider the "Alternate hiking/wading approach" described further down on the Rush area description page.

--> see Map

--> see Photo overview from NW

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