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Cova del Diablo

International > Europe > Spain > Mallorca > Porto Cristo

Description

After Es Pontas, the most famous climbing area in Mallorca. Arguably the best density of (safe) four star DWS routes in the world. Most routes require a rappel (or a heady jump) descent to reach the base, and there are several in-situ rope ladders to exit the water. A few easy routes on the outskirts of the cliff provide a means of escape, but ascenders are probably a good backup. The highest concentration is in the 5.12-5.13 range.

The new 2016 Rockfax Mallorca guidebook has significantly better beta on the access/exit and makes clarifying the routes much simpler.

Getting There

Drive to the far SE end of Porto Cristo ( the corner of Carrer del Llaut). Park on the south side of the corner on the south side of the road. Near the corner, a trail leads SE towards the cliff. A few beefy rock tunnels at the cliff edge should be obvious as points to set up sling anchors for a rappel.

Routes from Left to Right

5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
 3
Loskot and Two Smoking Barrels
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 2
Ejector Seat
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Afroman
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
White Noise
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Loskot and Two Smoking Barrels
 3
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 Sport
Ejector Seat
 2
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Afroman
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
White Noise
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad