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Routes in Golden Rock

Codex T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Full Speed Ahead T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moon Dawg T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moose and Squirrel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Speed of Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Description

Golden Rock is a small buttress on the right, west side of Ellery Bowl. The buttress is clean white granite and sits at the lowest point at the top of the "Bowl" with a small seasonal snowfield directly beneath it. Although a few other routes exist here, the gem is the underrated Speed of Life (5.11b), which shoots up the buttress in two pitches of superb crack climbing. "Moose and Squirrel" (5.10a) is a second pitch variation to "Speed of Life". "Codex" (5.12a) is on the buttress to the right of the recessed chimney system. "Full Speed Ahead" (5.11c) and "Moon Dawg" (5.9+) are further right, around the corner of the buttress out of Ellery Couloir.

Getting There

Park at Ellery Lake, cross the Rhinedollar Dam spillway, and head more or less straight up the talus field towards the buttress. There is a trail of sorts, but expect a 45-minute slog.

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Photos

Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
Here's a Youtube video of the approach up to Golden Rock taken by a quad cam:

youtube.com/watch?v=D794iYB…

Gives a pretty good idea of the slog up to the base and the walk back down to Ellery Lake. Jul 30, 2017

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