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South Buttress and Tinseltown Rock Climbing
Routes in South Buttress and Tinseltown
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Elevators S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Over Time S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rock Widow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock'n & Riding S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Royal Wedding S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wendy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Elevation: | 6,711 ft | 2,046 m |
| GPS: |
38.79063, -104.87603 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 15,054 total · 146/month | |
| Shared By: | R G on Jul 18, 2016 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage!
Details
Per Steven Armijo: Cheyenne Canyon Road is closed until May 2022 for bridge repairs. Only hiking and biking trail access is allowed into the canyon.
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Description
This area lies in the gully just south and east of the pinnacle on the left side of the road as you drive up the canyon. The gully is sometimes used to walk off of The Army Route or Crack Parallel.
L->R:
A. South Buttress, 9, 1p, pins & gear.
B. Rock Widow, 9, 1p, bolts.
C. Rock'n & Riding, 10, 1p, bolts.
D. Wendy, 7, 1p, bolts.
E. Royal Wedding, 9, 1p, bolts.
F. Over Time, 8, 1p, bolts.
G. Elevators, 8, 1p, bolts.
L->R:
A. South Buttress, 9, 1p, pins & gear.
B. Rock Widow, 9, 1p, bolts.
C. Rock'n & Riding, 10, 1p, bolts.
D. Wendy, 7, 1p, bolts.
E. Royal Wedding, 9, 1p, bolts.
F. Over Time, 8, 1p, bolts.
G. Elevators, 8, 1p, bolts.
Getting There
Park in the large parking area just south of Graduation Boulder. Cross the bridge with the steel cable, and follow the trail that is 50 feet after the bridge for two switchbacks. After doing the switchbacks, cut straight up the steep gully just south of the Pinnacle. The routes are on the left side 3/4 up the gully.
Classic Climbing Routes at South Buttress and Tinseltown
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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