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Routes in Central Cottage Dome - North Face Area

New World Order S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Description

I would like to encourage more traffic to this fine late morning and afternoon shady area. There is a collection of single pitches up to 50m long. The left side (NE facing) has a mix of trad, sport and runout; middle (N facing) and right side (NE facing) are mostly all bolted routes. As noted in the Reid/Falkenstein guidebook, the highest quality routes are in the 11-12a range and that's pretty much the truth.

The middle of the north face proper has 3 excellent (and by Tuolumne standards) safely bolted 100'-115' knob routes. At first glance they don't look like anything special, but I think they climb quite well and are great onsight challenges at the grade...it's like one giant black streak similar to parts of Medlicott Dome. Unfortunately, due to lack of popularity combined with water runoff, the whole wall has a bit of flakey lichens BUT these routes are suprisingly clean and very climbable as is and will be perfect after a few more ascents. This would be a great place for anyone training to onsight the Bachar-Yerian. The best time to start climbing here mid summer is after 12 or 1 so that the sun has moved overhead enough that you won't get blinded on the moves to anchors. A 70m rope is quite handy for these routes.

Most of the good routes have all 3/8" Rawl bolts but unfortunately at this time there is some galvanic corrosion from mixed metals and age, but they still look safe. All the anchors have worn out and crispy webbing and cord which could be updated with chains so bring some along with a knife for some good crag stewardship points...I plan to do so next time I visit but I'm not sure when that will be. The area needs a little love...the mixed and gear routes too. If some ambitious regulars were to spend some time resurrecting this entire wall with some cleaning, bolt maintenance, etc, it could become a great afternoon shade hang...just saying.

This entire wall is visable from the routes on the west face of East Cottage.
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Getting There

Same approach as for East Cottage Dome...driving west from the Meadows store, park in slightly hidden pullout on the right at 2.7 miles and walk uphill on a trail with cairns. Once at the saddle between East Cottage on your right and Central Cottage on your left, walk down easy low angle slabs to the Central Dome's north face. The Peanut Gallery (which is technically part of East Cottage but below its west face) will be immediately up on your right.

If already at the west face of East Cottage it's a quick and easy approach by descending the obvious ledges and gully under and to the west, making for a fine morning and afternoon destination.

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dcaunt  
Just for the record, all these routes were drilled from the ground up, no rehearsing. Most were placed from hooks, since it gets pretty steep as you get higher. The three climbs in the middle have the classic toulumne "peanut knobs", and you will be pimping to get up without falling. Protection is adequate with bolts and some stoppers. I may get up there this year in late August to see if I can clean up some of the routes. Jul 12, 2017
It's Tuolumne season once again! YES!!

Just wanted to bump this page up to get people stoked to climb here! If you like long knob routes, you gotta spend some time at this cliff! The routes are really good! The entire face needs some love in the way of cleaning/scrubbing and anchor clean-up ... and after only a few more ascents, the quality of the climbing will be fully revealed!

Good supertopo thread about the routes, the FA'ers and the style of the day...
supertopo.com/climbers-foru… Jul 6, 2017

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