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Routes in Dachstein

Direkte Dachsteinkante S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Elevation: 2,376 ft
GPS: 48.089, 9.035 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 85 total, 5/month
Shared By: Climb Germany on Jul 4, 2016
Admins: Shawn Heath
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Description

This 100 meter high mass of rock towers above the village of Hausen im Tal and Danube river. While nearby Stuhlfels sports a summit cross, Dachstein is topped with castle ruins, and come on...who doesn't want to scale a cliff face right up to the base of an ancient castle!

Dachstein is not for beginners. There are about four easy routes (UIAA 5+ and below) but all single pitch. The better routes, and all the multipitch routes are YDS 5.10 and up (UIAA 6+ to 7).

Also, a large number of routes are currently closed, though allegedly will be reopened this year sometime (2016). Check with the local DAV for the current status. Everything after the "Direkte Dachsteinkante" is closed for climbing right now which numbers around 30 routes.

The main feature of Dachstein is, as the name suggests, the "Dach" or huge roof. The most popular way up is the "Direkte Dachsteinkante" which is 4 pitches (UIAA, 4+, 7-, 7, 4) making it easy to start and finish, but rather challenging in the middle!

Getting There

Point your GPS to the tiny town of Hausen im Tal (Beuren) which sits directly on the Danube river. From there, park in Tobelstrasse and be respectful of the residents when choosing your spot. Don't just park wherever (though it seems Germans do exactly this!).

From Tobelstrasse, head north and uphill on the road towards Schwenningen (Schwenningerstr). After the first hairpin turn, take the foot path right and follow the trail to the base which is about 10 minutes in total.

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