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Routes in Les Guions

La Guionette S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Le Cypres S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Syndic Dalles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Elevation: 4,979 ft
GPS: 44.735, 6.611 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Optimistic on Jun 27, 2016
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514
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Description

West and Northwest facing crag with 28 bolted routes on good limestone. Two sectors within the area, La Guionette which is a sort of scooped out bowl, and La Grande Dalle which means "the big slab" in French. The routes on the right side of the Guionette are the steepest.

So far I've only climbed at the northern end of the Guionette and those routes were extremely pleasant, with pretty soft grades. On a Sunday with perfect weather, we saw no one all day. Beautiful views of the valley below and mountains above. Would not be a particularly good place for little kids, pretty steep slopes below the cliff.

The guidebook credits C Moulin, L Gaume, and J Gaboyer with all the routes on the cliff.

Note: some of the anchors we encountered didn't have chain connecting the bolts. You might want to carry some cord or webbing (or chain and quick links if you're really feeling team oriented in case you encounter this.

Getting There

GPS somewhat recommended. Follow the N94 to St Crepin, and then follow signs from there up to Les Guions. The town is really just 4 or 5 buildings, no services I could see. We parked on the final switchback about 500 feet south of the town. From the switchback follow the trail to St Crepin for about 60 feet and then drop down a pretty decent trail to the NW for maybe 200 feet. If get to where you can see a metal cross on top of the crag, you're too far south, you want to contour down the northern edge of the cliff.
The Rolland guide also says that you could walk up from St Crepin, but that looked like a lot of work to us.

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