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Magic Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Magic Wall
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Aces, Straights and Flushes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Alacazam S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Escape Artist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hocus Pocus Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Houdini S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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House of Cards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Illusionist S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Magician's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mind Over Matter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slight of Hand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Trickster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Whirlin Merlin T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Elevation: | 7,800 ft |
| GPS: | 37.417, -119.471 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 1,892 total · 68/month |
| Shared By: | G Halsne on Jun 6, 2016 |
| Admins: | M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
A beautiful wall with a great concentration of sport routes from 5.9 to 11.d Some routes are purely clipping while others require a few pieces of added gear. Overall a fabulous collection of routes and a must visit area if you are visiting the Chilkoot lake area.
Getting There
Walk the north end of the lake till you find a large clearing/ campsite with a fire ring about 200 feet from the lake. There is a trail that leads up the hillside left of some slabs, well marked by cairns. Follow the broken trail towards the hidden large walls to the right and work your way up and right passing Quarter Day dome and Christmas Wall finally ending up at the Magic wall. A good landmark if you find yourself bush whacking is the striking plated arete that is " Hocus Pocus Arete" which divides the west and south wall of the Magic Wall... Another landmark would be a massive dead tree about 30 feet tall that sits 15 feet fro the main/south wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Magic Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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