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Routes in Magic Wall

Aces, Straights and Flushes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alacazam S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Escape Artist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hocus Pocus Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Houdini S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
House of Cards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Illusionist S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Magician's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mind Over Matter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slight of Hand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trickster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whirlin Merlin T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 7,800 ft
GPS: 37.417, -119.471 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,222 total, 66/month
Shared By: G Halsne on Jun 6, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

A beautiful wall with a great concentration of sport routes from 5.9 to 11.d Some routes are purely clipping while others require a few pieces of added gear. Overall a fabulous collection of routes and a must visit area if you are visiting the Chilkoot lake area.

Getting There

Walk the north end of the lake till you find a large clearing/ campsite with a fire ring about 200 feet from the lake. There is a trail that leads up the hillside left of some slabs, well marked by cairns. Follow the broken trail towards the hidden large walls to the right and work your way up and right passing Quarter Day dome and Christmas Wall finally ending up at the Magic wall. A good landmark if you find yourself bush whacking is the striking plated arete that is " Hocus Pocus Arete" which divides the west and south wall of the Magic Wall... Another landmark would be a massive dead tree about 30 feet tall that sits 15 feet fro the main/south wall.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Magic Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hocus Pocus Arete
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hocus Pocus Arete 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
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