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Bulletheads North Rock Climbing
Routes in Bulletheads North
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Caucasian Eyes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ren T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wild Turkey T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Elevation: | 717 ft |
| GPS: | 49.679, -123.151 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 2,143 total · 65/month |
| Shared By: | geoff georges on May 11, 2016 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Kate Lynn |
Access Issue: Illegal Camping
Details
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
Description
The namesake feature of the north end of the Bulletheads with some classic hard climbs found on the upper ledges. There is a flurry of new route development at the base of this area. It would be great if there was a lower climb to access the Turkey ledge because now it is a very dirty 5th class rope pull up the south/south gully between Tantalus wall and the Bulletheads. There are old forgotten climbs that begin at the base that are dirty and overgrown.
Getting There
If starting from the campground go north ( left ) passing Self Abuse - the crescent arch, Bulletheads East route, Liquid Gold, some slabs in the woods which are being scrubbed, above these slabs is the lower wall of Bulletheads north with Constriction chimney being the most recognized feature. the 11b finger crack Chimp Dip is further left up the trail to Tantalus, and go up the gully before you reach Tantalus wall. Follow the ropes till they reach a right traverse over a rotten log to gain the Turkey ledge where Eurasian Eyes starts at the arete.
GETTING DOWN:
There are a few different options for the descent. Either find a trail at the top and hike south ( right ) till finding the gully with a fixed rope that is between the Mañana wall and Golden Labs, or rap down the wall with Mañana. Or rap from Wild Turkey( no chain ) with a double rope to the level of the 5.9 traverse to the Fight Club anchor. Or go to the top of the Bullet , find bolted anchor facing Tantalus wall and rap into the South/south Gully ( 2-3 single rope raps down to Turkey ledge level in gully. Or find anchor on north end of the Bullet and make single rope rap to ledge and anchor of the top of Fight Club, then another single rope rap to top of Ren, and one more to Turkey ledge area. The anchor down and right of Turkey ledge and Eurasian Eyes ( start of 5.9 traverse to Wild Turkey ) could be used to make double rope raps down to base of wall. It could be done with a single rope but you will be on some old anchors and will need slings.
GETTING DOWN:
There are a few different options for the descent. Either find a trail at the top and hike south ( right ) till finding the gully with a fixed rope that is between the Mañana wall and Golden Labs, or rap down the wall with Mañana. Or rap from Wild Turkey( no chain ) with a double rope to the level of the 5.9 traverse to the Fight Club anchor. Or go to the top of the Bullet , find bolted anchor facing Tantalus wall and rap into the South/south Gully ( 2-3 single rope raps down to Turkey ledge level in gully. Or find anchor on north end of the Bullet and make single rope rap to ledge and anchor of the top of Fight Club, then another single rope rap to top of Ren, and one more to Turkey ledge area. The anchor down and right of Turkey ledge and Eurasian Eyes ( start of 5.9 traverse to Wild Turkey ) could be used to make double rope raps down to base of wall. It could be done with a single rope but you will be on some old anchors and will need slings.
Classic Climbing Routes at Bulletheads North
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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