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Crack of Noon Rock Climbing
Routes in Crack of Noon
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Crack of Noon Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Little Devil S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Elevation: | 9,003 ft |
| GPS: |
40.5907, -111.65187 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 2,776 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | GRK on May 3, 2016 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
A remote little suburb of East Hellgate with two moderate lines. Nestled in the trees and shrubs below The Clamshell, this quiet crag has one traditional line as well as one bolted line and not much room for anything else. Crowding shouldn't be a worry as the approach requires a bit of work and climbers seldom carry cams and stoppers while climbing at East Hellgate. Exposure at the Crack of Noon Wall is similar to that of the Goatland Wall and shade doesn't come until late in the evening. About as isolated as it gets, this area is a nice spot that warrants at least one visit.
Getting There
One could thrash their way up from the road for some added suffering, or you could approach for the Melting Mud Wall. Follow the trail along the base until you reach the Winking Owl and scurry down the gully about 30 feet until you see a faint goat trail. Turn right and follow this until an obvious crag appears.
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