Elevation: 937 ft
GPS: 43.078, -89.45 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,689 total · 136/month
Shared By: Aidan Eno on Apr 25, 2016
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge
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An old, abandoned quarry turned into a park in one of the nicest neighborhoods of Madison, WI yields plenty of potential for prime bouldering. The rock is mostly sandstone, with some dolomite. The sandstone parts are strong enough to hold on to. The area is mostly visited by people out for a short stroll and the neighborhood kids. Seldom is it frequented by climbers. There is an upper terrace and a lower terrace; the lower is very sunny, while the upper is quite shaded. Plenty of climbable area.

Getting There

From the corner of Midvale Blvd and University Avenue, head east on University. Turn left on Highbury, and left again on Tallyho Rd. Make a quick right back on to Highbury, and after a house or two there should be a road heading into the quarry. The road is mostly dirt, but there might be some wood chips on the road. Parking is somewhat limited.

8 Total Climbs

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Location: Dudley Davis Quarry Park: Shorewood Hills, Madison Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Dudley Davis Quarry Park: Shorewood Hills, Madison

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
When in Doubt...
V3 6A
Crimp City
V4 6B
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
When in Doubt...
V3 6A Boulder
Crimp City
V3 6A Boulder
V4 6B Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Dudley Davis Quarry Park: Shorewood Hills, Madison »

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Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Bouldering area right in the city of Madison? Whaaatt?

Sweet! Apr 25, 2016
Yeah, I recently discovered this park, and I've started to brush off some holds and turn it into a bouldering area right here in Madison. It's been tough work, but it's getting better after each session I spend there. I hope people who live in Madison, but can't find the means or time to get out to Devil's Lake, start to use it as an outdoor resource. At least, that's my goal. Happy climbing! Apr 27, 2016
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Some history of the park is here:

Sounds like a place that could use a helping hand! Apr 28, 2016
Damn. I never looked there. Good find! Keep it up! Apr 28, 2016
Minneapolis, MN
jaysquared   Minneapolis, MN
The dolomite on the upper terrace is really chossy, but the sandstone lower down is ok. While the rock is much taller on the upper terrace and some might be tempted to throw a rope on it, there is a good chance some very large blocks would come loose. Be careful! Jun 4, 2016
Visited the park fort the first time today and there's good opportunity for more routes here. If someone wants to come establish some routes with me it'd be cool if we could use a step ladder and brushes to really clean it up. I'll just keep working at it in the meantime. Jul 16, 2016
Hey, I'd be interested in establishing some more routes here, I live <5 minutes away, so it's super convenient. Nov 4, 2016
Ethan Clark
Verona WI
Ethan Clark   Verona WI
I visited today, neat place that's easy to miss. I had no idea it was there. There's certainly potential there, but also TONS of loose rock. That said I saw a few things I'll be back to clean up and climb. Too wet today, didn't bring shoes. I really like the drive up access. Nov 25, 2016
I don't live in Madison anymore, so I won't be able to help clean up the area. You guys should definitely try to clean it up though. I recommend finding a route you think looks fun, then climb it, and any place that is too dusty or full of loose rock brush out with a large painter's brush. That's how I did it. Good luck y'all. Go set some routes. Feb 6, 2017
Interesting little area. The upper tier does not seem to do well with freeze/thaw, as we removed softball sized rocks from most of the existing problems. Be very careful, very chossy up top.

The lower tier, at least the spots not covered in mulch piles, was pretty solid and had some fun moves. Best stuff is right by the entrance. Apr 7, 2017
Since this thread is nearly a year old, it's worth posting that I climbed out here with some friends and had a good time. Everything was super dirty and this place needs some maintenance to be enjoyably climbable - but we had a good time. If people see this and are interested, I'd be happy to team up with folks to get it in good shape.

Also worth pointing out that I talked with the park/neighborhood manager, he seemed alright with me bouldering back there. Aug 17, 2018