Schreyfels Rock Climbing
Routes in Schreyfels
|Opakante S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|GPS:||48.075, 9.014 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Climb Germany on Apr 20, 2016|
Getting weather forecast...
Description and what notFirst: Wear a helmet! Lots of chossy areas and danger of rockfall!
A massive crag with a hint of alpine flair reaching 70 meters high with gorgeous views of the Danube Valley below. There are many moderate climbs here but few easy ones below UIAA 6 (YDS 5.9). Plenty of harder stuff from UIAA 8 to 11 if you're in that range.
Schreyfels has one of the most classic multi-pitch routes in the region, Opakante (Grandpa's Arete). This is what most people are coming for.
Also note rappelling is required here. You top out near private property belonging to a prince. There's a metal fence along the edge of the crag at the top(which is used to belay followers from) and a wooden bench where you can chill. However, you CANNOT stray from here.
There is a rap station (with a sign posted) with 3x 22 meter rappels. Also, in case you're wondering, yeah, you rap off the fence (it's made of thick metal poles).
Your second option is a very bad, narrow and steep path downhill with shit loads of glass around that leads to steel wire attached to the rock (like a mini via feratta) you can use to descend a bit until the rap station which consists of a monster O shaped bolt. Rusty but seems solid. From there you can make one rap to the bottom (60m rope definitely fine, I'd guess a 50m would work too) but there's tons of trees and rocky outcrops to snag your rope so watch out. Not recommended.
Getting ThereFrom the town of Hausen im Tal, head towards Beuron and about 800 meters after the sign for the village of "Langenbrunn" there's a parking lot on the right. In fact, it's the only parking lot you'll see and it's very easy to miss.
From there, take the only hiking trail there which has a large sign for Schreyfels and take the first right fork. Continue and then left at the next crossing and finally bear to the right to the first climbs, about 15 minutes total. There are several signs along the way to make clear which forks to take.
GPS: 9.01439 48.07466
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Prime Climbing Season