Elevation: 5,000 ft
GPS: 41.254, -111.884 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,446 total · 141/month
Shared By: Cass Bindrup on Apr 16, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

The Grey Cliffs are the tall bands of limestone towering above the Grey Cliff Lodge and Alaskan Inn on the North side of Ogden Canyon. They are high up away from the road and over 100 feet tall, hosting many single pitch aid and free routes and a few two-pitch outings. Routes have been done on these walls probably as far back as the 50s and 60's. Rock quality is inconsistent, some say horrendous. This may be limestone but this is not a sport-climbing zone. The rock is unique from the lime South in American Fork and North in Logan in that it is able to be traditionally protected. Water has scoured grooves, pockets and runnels into the sharp stone and seams/thin cracks abound. Few climbers frequent the limestone therefore rotten rock prevails especially on the higher more difficult to access routes. Each area begins with a band of deteriorating blocky shale and mudstone. This band can extend from anywhere between 2 feet to 30 feet, but always eventually gives way to the sharper but more compact grey-blue limestone above. The features here are crazy. Because the approach is steep, loose and treeish the crowds are kept at bay and therefore this area is not an ideal candidate for yet another sport crag. If you want a well-protected sport crag with sharp holds and vertical to overhanging routes, just cross the canyon, there is a "killer" one in view. The grey cliffs, requiring a bit more effort to access, deserve a different ethic. Bolts exist at anchor points but only occasionally mid-route. Pins abound, young and old. Longer run-outs and heads-up climbing give the area character. This is a great area for the toprope/headpointing approach due to the boldness of the climbing and routing. Fair warning rap-bolting is strongly discouraged, and bolts could get chopped. There may even be a chisel-happy madman (my father) living in a house just at the base of the cliff bands.  Anchors are hand drilled due to the close proximity of the neighborhood surrounding grey cliff lodge (please don't create access issues for the rest of us by operating machinery above their homes). Morning till evening sun. Stunning views of the entire canyon as both valleys open up in the distance. This area is divided onto several sub-areas: Drillbit Wall and the approach boulders(5 minute approach), Facerock (aka hummingbird wall-30 minutes), And the Grey Cliffs themselves (East, West, Upper, and Lower- 45+ minutes). Tread lightly and don't disturb land owners.

Getting There

Drive up Ogden Canyon past the Alaskan Inn and turn into the Grey Cliff Lodge Restaurant neighborhood, cross a green bridge and find inconspicuous parking either in the Restaurant's lot if they aren't busy (daytime) or elsewhere in the neighborhood if they are (evenings except Monday when they are closed). Hike up to the Pipeline trail directly behind and above the restaurant by climbing up the hill or going around through the neighborhood. Walk west on the pipeline trail until you come to the telephone pole #49. The climbing begins here at Drillbit wall.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Grey Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Drillbit Direct
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Drillbit Direct Drillbit Wall
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
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