Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Old Man Spire

Oregon > Southwest Oregon

Description

The impressive spire above the North Umpqua River about 50 miles up river from Roseburg. This area has a long climbing history that goes back to 1963 when Mike Dilley, Mark McLaughlin, Brian Gannon, Janet Niece, and Gary Kirk made the first ascent via 2 pitch Dilley's Delight (5.8). The first Tyrolean Traverse was made between The Old Woman and Old Man Spire in 1980 by Doug Smith.

Getting There

Access via the North Umpqua Trail from where the highway crosses the river at milepost 50 or from the Soda Springs trailhead.

Soda Springs Trailhead: From N. Umpqua Highway heading east, turn left onto Medicine Creek Rd, then take immediate road left onto Soda Springs Rd. Follow this road crossing over Soda Springs Dam and continuing to where road ends at gate. From gate follow the N. Umpqua Trail upslope, then left dropping down and crossing the Boulder Ck foot bridge. From Boulder Creek continue on N. Umpqua Trail to next Creek crossing (approx. 1/2 mi). As soon as you cross creek follow scramble trail up hill leading to Old Man. 

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 4
● Northwest Ridge Route (old woman)
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 1
● West Dihedral (Old Woman)
Trad
A0
 1
● Old Man - Old Woman Tyrolean Tra…
Aid
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
● Dilley's Delight
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
● The Prize
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Northwest Ridge Route (old…
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
● West Dihedral (Old Woman)
 1
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
● Old Man - Old Woman Tyrolea…
 1
A0 Aid
● Dilley's Delight
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
● The Prize
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Old Man and Old Woman. <br> g orton
[Hide Photo] Old Man and Old Woman. g orton
Umpqua Community College Class outting with a Tyrolean between Old Man and Old Woman. The North Umpqua River and Highway below. g Orton
[Hide Photo] Umpqua Community College Class outting with a Tyrolean between Old Man and Old Woman. The North Umpqua River and Highway below. g Orton
Old Man Old woman...only one route in this photo of east face from highway.
[Hide Photo] Old Man Old woman...only one route in this photo of east face from highway.
Tyler Adams on the Tyrolean between Old Man and Old Woman. g Orton
[Hide Photo] Tyler Adams on the Tyrolean between Old Man and Old Woman. g Orton
The rappel off of the Old Man
[Hide Photo] The rappel off of the Old Man

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

gso Orton
Roseburg, OR
[Hide Comment] A recent comment for the Prize mentions basalt. Technically it is shallow-intrusive rhyodacite. Basalt on the Umpqua is pretty low quality. May 24, 2020