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Elevation: 1,763 ft 537 m
GPS: 43.29586, -122.53892
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 11,548 total · 114/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Apr 3, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Winston Mueller, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

Description Suggest change

The impressive spire above the North Umpqua River about 50 miles up river from Roseburg. This area has a long climbing history that goes back to 1963 when Mike Dilley, Mark McLaughlin, Brian Gannon, Janet Niece, and Gary Kirk made the first ascent via 2 pitch Dilley's Delight (5.8). The first Tyrolean Traverse was made between The Old Woman and Old Man Spire in 1980 by Doug Smith.

Getting There Suggest change

Access via the North Umpqua Trail from where the highway crosses the river at milepost 50 or from the Soda Springs trailhead.

Soda Springs Trailhead: From N. Umpqua Highway heading east, turn left onto Medicine Creek Rd, then take immediate road left onto Soda Springs Rd. Follow this road crossing over Soda Springs Dam and continuing to where road ends at gate. From gate follow the N. Umpqua Trail upslope, then left dropping down and crossing the Boulder Ck foot bridge. From Boulder Creek continue on N. Umpqua Trail to next Creek crossing (approx. 1/2 mi). As soon as you cross creek follow scramble trail up hill leading to Old Man. 

5 Total Climbs

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Location: Old Man Spire Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Man Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 4
Northwest Ridge Route (old woman)
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Dilley's Delight
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
The Prize
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Northwest Ridge Route (old…
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Dilley's Delight
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Prize
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Old Man Spire »

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