PRINT: Rock Climbing in Rodent Rock, Lyons

Rodent Rock

Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Rodent Ravine

Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays Details

Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.

From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.

During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.

codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…

Description

Hike a bit up the ravine, you can't miss it. There is one bolted route on the West face.

Getting There

Hike up the ravine towards The Gopher.

Per M M: the GPS coordinates are: 40.179705, -105.359182.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 3 ● Red Robin Trad

● Red Robin

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad

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Rodent Rock.

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M M

There is another bolted route on the right side of the cliff that has a newish looking bolted anchor (2 bolts + chains). I TR solo'd it, and it felt like maybe 9+/10-? Not sure, might feel different on lead. There are about 4-5 bolts on it, but if I were to lead, I'd bring a 0.4 cam for between 1st and 2nd bolt, and then a smaller piece (size 0 TCU or maybe a little bigger?) for higher up on the route. Some bolts are kind of spaced out.

It's mainly just a slab until you get to a shelf then easy crack to the anchors. The first crux was right after the first bolt navigating the small roof, and then a second crux at the top where you do a compression-y to layback movement using the flared crack, right before the shelf. Jan 18, 2021

nbrown

Regarding the righthand route: it was done as a mixed climb and protects well with the gear that Marcos mentions. Felt 5.10 as a (rope-solo) lead to me. Nothing special... but something else to climb if you're up that way. Jan 25, 2021